teady Reference Book 

ON I III 

AINING ami 
REATMENT 
of the HORSE 




IJV 



Prof. F. J. Hagerling 

The World's Renowned 
HORSE EDUCATOR 

ILLEVILLE, - ILLINOIS 



PRICI : ~,c> < I NTS 



The 

Training and Treatment 

of the 

HORSE 




By Prof. F. J. I^agerlmg 
The World s Renowned Horse 
Educator 



A 



°) 






Copyright', 1910, 
Bv Prof. F. J. Hafcerling 



6-CLA2659? 9 



INTRODUCTORY. 

The abuses, and many bad habits and traits 
of the horse, caused by these abuses,together with 
the great love he in common with others share 
for the noble animal — the horse — with its many 
valuable attributes, have induced the author to 
edit this little booklet. It has been prepared in a 
convenient, small pamphlet form for pocket and 
ready reference use, so that any one will be able 
to profit by the author's many years of experience 
in training horses and make them docile and sub- 
missive to the work they were intended for. 

The author has devoted a great many years 
to the training and breaking of mean, vicious 
horses, and the experience gained during these 
years in the training of some horses that have de- 
fied the best of horsemen, the author has set down 
in a simple way and in language easily under- 
stood. During these years the author has given 
exhibitions in numerous places and has subdued a 
long string of horses with every form of bad 
habit. 

The book should be in the hands of every 
lover of horseflesh. Even children will enjoy the 
reading of same, and it will teach them the love of 
animals and how to handle the horse as they grow 
up in years. 



- 4 - 

The Perpetual Motion Horse. 

By the perpetual motion horse is meant the 
horse that is supposed to follow his usual occupa- 
tion for six days in the week, each day of fourteen 
hours duration, and on Sunday to put in a couple 
of hours extra, that is, sixteen hours as a roads- 
ter. This class of horse is usually found hooked 
to a heavy delivery wagon, such as are usually 
used by our city grocers, butchers and retail de- 
liverers of all classes, and especially in smaller 
sized places. The owner thinks he cannot afford 
to keep a horse for buggy purposes only, and 
therefore when Sunday comes, instead of permit- 
ting his horse to rest for a day, will hitch him to a 
buggy or surrey early in the morning, load his 
family, and sometimes the neighbor's family as 
well, into the conveyance and start out for a long 
ride in the country, never considering that while 
he and his family are enjoying a rest, his poor 
horse has his head reined up much higher than 
ordinarily and is compelled to do much harder 
work on the day of supposed rest than on ordi- 
nary days. 

Now this is a great error, and the small mer- 
chant who cannot afford to keep a horse for driv- 
ing purposes only, ought to be a little considerate 
with his poor animal and give him one day's rest 
out of the seven, for no horse nor man can con- 
tinue to work seven days each week and maintain 
his health. God has commanded man to work six 
days and rest on the seventh, and this same in- 
junction applies to horses as well as to men, ex- 
cept that this day of rest for the horse is not 
necessarily on the Sabbath, but it may be any day 
of the week. On the day of rest assigned to the 
horse his groom ought to give him a thorough 



overhauling, that is, he ought to be thoroughly 
cleaned, special attention being paid to his hoofs, 
and if they have become hardened by constant 
use on hard roads, either pack them with clay, or, 
better still, turn him out en a grass plot while the 
dew is still on the grass. On this day give him an 
extra feed of some kind of meal to loosen his 
bowels and give him such other attention as a 
horse may require from time to time. 

This article is inserted into this work to re- 
mind the reader that a horse, like a man, must 
have a day of rest occasionally. 

In connection with the above subject I would 
like to call the attention of the reader to one more 
fact, which is well known to all who handle hors- 
es, and that is that the horse, especially in the 
summer time, is constantly afflicted with a sore 
back caused by the galling of the saddle. When 
the sore is discovered the owner's first step is to 
apply some remedy to heal the sore, but he pays 
no attention whatever to the cause of the sore. 
The cause is usually found in the driver. When 
he stops the horse he jumps onto the shafts on 
one side or the other and then to the ground. 
When he gets ready to start again he jumps onto 
the shafts and then to his seat. The average 
weight of the driver is from one hundred twenty- 
five to one hundred sixty pounds. Is it to be won- 
dered at that when this weight is thrown on the 
shafts on one side or the other, with the ordinary 
harness as it is usually used, that the horse's 
back can be anything else but sore? The part of 
the back covered by the saddle is usually very 
tender, caused by constant perspiration in the 
summer time and no opportunity given to dry out 
by reason of the air being excluded by the saddle. 
Now, this tender part receives the worst treat- 



ment of any part of the horse's body, and this 
constant jumping on and off the shafts, so irri- 
tates the parts that the hair and skin are soon 
rubbed off and a sore is there and will remain 
there as long as this constant irritation goes on. 
The drivers of these horses are to be closely 
watched and told how to jump into and out of 
the wagon, and under no circumstances should 
they be permitted to step onto the shafts. 

Occasionally a sore back is caused by the 
horses's head being reined too high, which moves 
the saddle onto its withers, a place for which the 
saddle was not intended, and this also causes the 
crupper to raise the tail and cause an irritation 
at the root of the tail and a sore tail is the result. 






A Few Words to the Owners of Bad Horses 

Who Wish Their Horses Properly 

Broken by Horse Trainers. 

When you wish a horse trainer to take your 
bad horse in charge, inform him of all the faults 
and bad points the horse possesses when the 
trainer receives him, in order that he may know 
what points to work on. For instance, you may 
have a bad kicking horse which you wish trained, 
and should you forget to inform the trainer of 
this bad habit, he may hitch the horse to a short 
shaft buggy or cart. The horse may go along 
nicely for awhile, and the trainer will be under 
the impression that he has a very easy horse to 
break, not looking out for kicking, thinking he 
has his horse trained. He will be taken unawares 
when the horse takes a ' 'crazy notion" and lets 
fly with his hind legs, thus endangering the life 
of the driver, and then you will have more than a 



bad horse on your hands. Therefore, if you will 
inform the trainer of all the bad habits your 
horse has, you will avoid all accidents and receive 
your horse well trained in a shorter time than 
you may expect. When the horse is trained and 
he is passed back to you, don't let him stand in 
the stable for a day or two, or perhaps a week, to 
rest, but exercise him daily, thus avoiding his 
falling back into bad habits again. I would also 
advise you to go with the trainer the last few 
days and drive the horse yourself under guidance 
of the trainer, before you receive the horse. 
Caress and talk to the horse as the trainer has 
done, so that the animal may become acquainted 
with your voice and will yield to your influence 
and understand your intentions and what is ex- 
pected of him. You will find that you will have 
very little trouble to master your animal after he 
is passed back to you. Also remember, do not 
blame the trainer for the damage the horse may 
do to himself, by breaking or injuring his legs, by 
kicking, or by breaking his neck, or by throwing 
himself down or by falling, or by other mishaps. 
These things are all liable to happen and cannot 
be avoided while training unruly horses. 

The trainer does not ask you to guarantee 
his life when he takes your horse to break. He is 
running greater chances with his own life and 
limbs than you are running with your horse. 
Therefore never ask the trainer to guarantee that 
he will not hurt your horse. 



The Word "Whoa" How it is Used and How 
it is Misused. 

The word "whoa" is the most common word 
used among horsemen, and still ninety-five per 
cent, of our drivers do not know what the word 



means. How can you expect the unfortunate, 
dumb horse to understand what "whoa" means if 
our drivers do not understand it? If they do know 
its meaning they do not practice it on their horses 
properly. For instance, there are some people 
who, the moment they open their stable door in 
the morning or evening, or at any other time, even 
if the horse is lying down, will use the word 
"whoa" in order to let him know of their presence. 
The horse receives the word "whoa" for break- 
fast, "whoa" for dinner and "whoa" for supper. 
Now, in place of using the word "whoa" w T hen you 
enter the stable, it is just as easy to call the horse 
by his name or use some other word. 

Again, when the horse is harnessed up in a 
rig and he turns his head around to cne side, or 
becomes restless, prances or takes a notion to 
walk away, the driver again uses the word 
"whoa," which should not be used at such times. 
When you have a horse that is a little nervous and 
will not stand or wait until you get into the buggy, 
if you use the following method you cannot fail to 
break him of these bad habits : Stand beside your 
buggy with the lines in one hand and rattle and 
shake the wheels of the buggy with your other 
hand. If your horse attempts to start while you 
are shaking the buggy, give him a sudden jerk 
with the lines, saying at the same moment, 
"Stand !" Continue this lesson until the horse is 
satisfied to stand until you are ready to get ini<> 
the buggy. After you have gained your point get 
into the buggy and place your lines on the dash 
board, but be careful that they do not slip down. 
Then brush off the cushion, sit down a little care- 
lessly, light your cigar and place your lap-robe 
over your knees, but remember to keep one eye on 
your horse and one on the lines. The moment your 



horse makes any attempt to walk or lunge away 
from you. reach for your lines and give a sudden 
jerk, using the word "Stand!" as mentioned 
above. Make the horse think that the punishment 
he is receiving at the mouth is coming from the 
word "stand" and he will soon obey orders. Prac- 
tice this on your horse until he will do as you 
command him. You must not think, however, that 
you can break all restless horses in a day or two. 
It sometimes takes a month or two. It all depends 
upon how firm the driver is with his horse. 

If you should see an automobile, band of 
music, street car, steam roller, or anvthing else 
coming toward ycu, and you see that the horse is 
about to shy away from the objects, don't use the 
word "whoa." To draw his attention away from 
the object, say to him "Be careful," or "Steady," 
or almost anything in place of "Whoa, Charlie," 
or "Whoa, Billy." Try to forget that word "whoa" 
when you only want to steady your horse. If you 
are driving a fast pace along the road and you 
come to a street car track, a high or low gutter, or 
a bad place in the road, use the word "steady" in 
place of "whoa" when you wish to slacken the 
speed. 

Now, bear in mind that "whoa" is only to be 
used when you want your horse to stop, and not 
for anything else. 



How to Use the Whip and Make the Horse 
Pass Different Objects. 

There are drivers that will handle their hors- 
es in the following manner when they come to 
objects that will frighten their horses : They will 
try hard to make them pass the object, and while 
passing they will begin to think, "I'll fix you when 



- 10 — 

we have passed this place." As soon as they have 
passed the object they pick up the whip, give the 
horse a severe crack and say, "I'll show you how 
to shy.' ; They may say different things which i 
do not think it proper to mention. The next time 
the horse becomes frightened at an object, he will 
not only shy, but will be afraid of the whip, think- 
ing he is going to be punished by the driver. If 
he is a hard-mouthed horse he may run away and 
will be a badly spoiled horse. 

When you are about to pass an object thai 
the horse may be frightened at and you think he 
is going to turn around and go the other way, 
don't lose your nerves, but pick up your whip and 
give him a crack on the side to which he is abouc 
to turn. If he tries to turn the other way, reach 
out with the whip and tap him on that side. Un- 
til you have your horse straightened out, steadily 
talk to him, telling him what the object is and 
that it is not going to hurt him. Don't be afraid 
to use the whip and don't use it as if you were 
only knocking flies off the horse's back, but use it 
severely enougn to make him understand that he 
must pass the object. After you have passed the 
object place the whip back in the socket, but don't 
allow your horse to go faster than a walk while 
going away from the object. 



How to Educate Horses not to be Afraid of 
Different Objects. 

Here is a very simple way to educate a horsv 
not to be afraid of different things. Place around 
your horse a strong surcingle. Take a strap eight 
or ten inches long and place it around your horse • 
loot below the fetlock. Then take a strap a foo* 
long with a buckle in one end and run this stra;> 



- 11 — 

through the foot strap. Raise your horse's foot 
up to the surcingle and run the strap through the 
ring on the surcingle and buckle the ends of the 
strap together. You will then have your horse 
standing on three legs. Have a good halter and 
rope placed on your horse's head so he cannot get 
away from you. Tie your horse to a strong post, 
and hang on the surcingle sleigh bells, flags, tin 
pans, loose bundles of papers, and whatever you 
think will frighten the horse. Let him stand with 
these objects on him until he is perfectly satisfied 
that they are harmless. 



Educating the Horse to Stand Until You are 
in the Buggy. 

T find in my travels throughout the country 
that a number of people have a great amount of 
trouble in getting their horse to stand until they 
are in the buggy. To remedy this the best plan to 
pursue is to hitch the horse to a buggy with an 
extra strong shaft in it, and with it should be 
taken a strong rope or a first-class hitching strap, 
to be tied around the horse's neck, or snap it 
around under the neck so as not to choke him; 
pass the rope or strap through the bit ring and 
tie the rope to a stout post or tree. Don't allow 
any more than two feet of rope between the tree 
and the bit. Now, then, take hold of your lines 
gently and stand beside the buggy. You should 
then rattle or shake the wheels, and when the 
animal makes an attempt to start, give him a 
sudden jerk on the lines, and at the same time 
command him to stand. The horse being tied, the 
rope or hitching strap will not allow him to go 
further than two feet from the spot. After he has 
become quiet again, step into the buggy very 
recklessly, and should he happen to start away 



- 12 - 

again, repeat the command to stand and jerk your 
lines a little harder. The animal will finally com- 
mence to realize he is punishing himself by try- 
ing to get away from the hitching post. This 
method of procedure should be continued until 
you have gained your point. 

Now, should you be out driving with the 
same horse and you wish to stop on the street and 
speak to a friend and you are sure the animal will 
not stand while you are holding the conversation, 
you should drive him to the nearest hitching-post 
or tree, but not tie him. You can then have your 
friend come to the place you are stopping and 
speak to him, but remain in the buggy. Should 
your horse, while you are holding your conversa- 
tion, make an attempt to start, give him a very 
sudden jerk with the line that is on the side 
where the tree or hitching-post is. In doing 
this, he will soon begin to learn that when he is 
brought to a hitching-post he must either stand 
or be punished. In a very short time, by follow- 
ing this plan, you will find that you will be able 
to take vour family into the bu^ory without being 
in danger of the horse starting up until they are 
all in and give him the command to go, and you 
can stop your horse anywher- along the street 
where yon desire, and the animal will stand until 
you give the command. 



Side Pulling or Side Lining. 

The teeth are often the cause of bad habits 
of horses, such as side pulling, or, as it is some- 
times called, side lining, and even shying. Both 
habits are often caused by sharp teeth or other 
irregularities in the teeth. To remedy this fault, 
float or rasp the inside of the lower crushing 
teeth and cut smooth the outside of the upper 



— 13 - 

molars. Should this not have the desired effect, 
cut off some of the lower first crushing tooth on 
the side opposite to which he turns his head, that 
is, if the horse pulls or turns his head to the right 
side, cut the tooth on the left side, and, of course, 
the reverse if the horse carries his head to the 
left side. 



Working on a Horse's Hind Legs Before 
Taking Him to a Shop to be Shod. 

Get a foot strap, then take a rope ten feet 
long and one-half inch thick, and a round stick 
eight inches long and as thick as an ordinary 
broom handle. Now take your strap and buckle it 
around the horse's hind leg below the fetlock joint. 
Pass the rope through the ring on the strap and 
make, a large slip knot in the end of the rope which 
you have passed through the ring. Take the stick 
and lay it directly across the center of the horse's 
tail below the last joint and double the tail up over 
the stick, and pass the slip knot over the stick and 
tail, drawing the loop tight. Take your stand at 
least six feet behind the horse, pick up the other 
end of the rope, begin to pull, and at the same time 
say to your horse, "Raise your foot, sir!" You 
will find that he will struggle hard to extract his 
foot, but pay no attention to that ; keep pulling on 
the rope until he is satisfied that he cannot put his 
foot on the ground. After he stops struggling 
and finds that he cannot place his foot down, have 
your assistant walk up to the side of the horse's 
hind leg and with a short stick or hammer tap 
the bottom of the horse's hoof, as though he were 
going to drive a nail in the foot. At first tap the 
hoof lightly so as not to excite the horse too much. 
Then slacken the rope and allow the foot to come 



— 14 - 

clown and rest for a few minutes. Repeat this les- 
son about ten or twelve times a day, tapping the 
hoof each time harder, and continue same for a 
week or longer, if necessary. The next time you 
take your horse to the blacksmith shop you will 
not only surprise the blacksmith, but you will find 




o a, 

C w 

M 2 

2 c 

£ 2 




c .2 



E ts 



that you have gained a great point. You will save 
time for the blacksmith, and save your horse from 
being abused by some shoers who easily lose 
patience when they have a horse that kicks or 
does not hold his leg while being shod. Try this 



- 15 - 

method on a horse that has been impossible to 
shoe. Some blacksmiths will not shoe such horses 
without extra charges for the time lost in making 
them stand. When a point like this is gained al- 
ways reward your horse by patting him, and he 
will appreciate it. 



The Advantage a Horseshoer has Over a 
Kicking Horse That has a Long Tail. 

When a horse is brought to be shod, and you 
find that he kicks with his back legs, or lays his 
weight over on you, see if he has a long tail. If 
so, take hold of it and wrap it around the horse's 
leg at the coronet between the hoof and fetlock, 
and hold to the end of the tail until the horse 
stops kicking. By wrapping the tail around the 
coronet you save yourself the trouble of trying to 
hold up the leg when the horse tries to kick you. 



The Overcheck; How it can be Used and 
How it is Misused. 

The overcheck, if used properly, is the best 
piece of harness that can be used on your horse. It 
can be used when breaking colts to prevent their 
getting the kicking habit. It protects the driver 
from being kicked while driving in a short shaft 
cart or buggy. It will answer the purpose of a 
kicking strap. When the colt's head is checked 
up he cannot get his head down and raise his hind 
legs in the air to kick you. I consider the over- 
check the best kicking strap that can be placed on 
kickers if checked up high enough. It may look 
cruel in the eyes of the public to see a vicious, 
kicking horse checked up as high as possible. I 
state this to guard you while driving a kicking 



- 16 - 

horse, to protect you from being crippled or kill- 
ed. When the horse makes any attempt to get his 
head down to kick, the overcheck punishes him so 
severely in the mouth that he gives up the kicking 
notion. Bad kickers that have been kicking all 
their lives will still try to kick if they are checked 
up high and you must be on your guard against 
them. They will soon stop it, though, if they arc 
checked up high enough. 

Many people condemn the overcheck even 
when driving the horse to a light buggy, claiming 
it is cruel. With a light buggy on good roads the 
overcheck may be used to protect the horse from 
stumbling. If he is not checked too high a horse 
gets used to the overcheck and doesn't mind it at 
all. The overcheck is used on a horse the same 
way as a collar is used on a man. When he wisher: 
to be well dressed he puts a collar on. The over- 
check is also a necessity in driving fast horses to 
assist you in steadying them. It prevents them 
from working their heads up and down and get- 
ting into a lope. It is almost impossible to drive 
them fast in a pace or trot without having their 
heads checked up. 

The overcheck should never be used on work- 
ing horses. A horse drawing a heavily loaded 
wagon must have his head free. With the head 
checked up the horse is punished and cannot do as 
much work. Imagine yourself at hard labor with 
a high standing collar on and with one hand tied. 

The overcheck must not be used on heavy 
roads, as the horse must have his head free in this 
case as well. 

Horses wearing collars must not have the 
overcheck, for it punishes them severely, because 
the collar is broad and heavy, causing pressure on 
overcheck bit when the horse starts, as the traces 



— 17 — 

are attached to the hames which are around the 
collar, drawing down the horse's neck. The side 
check is much more humane when driving a horse 
with a collar. 

Farmers often state they must use the check 
to keep the horses from eating the corn tops or 
other grain that they might be working in. In- 
stead of the check I would suggest the use of a 
muzzle made of screen wire or bailed hay wire. A 
muzzle can be put on a horse in such a way that 
he will never feel its presence. This muzzle will 
be more effective than the overcheck and will at 
the same time give the horse the free use of his 
head, so that he can do more and better work. 

When a horse is left standing hitched up for 
a considerable length of time, unless he is a bad 
kicker, the check should be loosened, as it punish- 
es him a great deal more to be checked up while 
standing than while traveling. This could not be 
done with a bad kicker, as the horse would be apt 
to demolish the vehicle to which he is hitched. 



The Most Successful Method of Breaking 

Bad Kickers Without the use 

of Hobbles. 

Place on your horse a strong bridle with an 
extra good overcheck rein. Have the overcheck 
made about an inch and a half wide. Place on the 
horse the harness, saddle and breeching. Fasten 
the backing strap to the tugs as tight as you can 
and check your horse's head up in the air as high 
as possible. Don't be afraid to check up his head 
as far as you can get it. You cannot hurt him. He 
may fight the overcheck.but pay no attention to it. 
He will soon get used to it. He may also try to 
throw himself. If he does this, do not get excited. 



— 18 - 

Just walk up to him and loosen the overcheck. 
Blow into his ear, but do not place your hands on 
his neck while you are blowing (You understand 
the horse is now down). If this fails to get him 
up, tap him on the nostril or end of the ear with 
the whip, or get a bucket of water, hold his nostril 
up and pour the water into the nostril. If you 
wish to know how severe the water test is, lie 
down on a couch or the floor and have some one 
pour a little water into your own nostril and sec 
how long you will remain lying down. If this fails 
and you find it almost impossible to get him up, 
buy five cents worth of ammonia. Pour a little on 
your handkerchief and hold the handkerchief 
over the horse's nostrils for about two seconds, 
remembering not to place your hands on the 
horse's neck. Give the horse a chance to get up. 
When he is up check him up again and com- 
pel him to get used to it. Take hold of one line 
and say "Come here!" Make him follow you 
around with his head checked up. After you have 
accomplished this, get three tin pans and punch 
a hole through each one so that you can pass a 
half inch rope through them. Take a rope about 
six feet long, and after tying a knot in one end, 
pass the other end through one of the holes. Push 
the pan down the rope to the knot. Then tie an- 
other knot about four inches from the pan, thread 
on the second pan; tie another knot, and thread 
on the third pan. Then take a snap and fasten it 
about three feet from the first tin pan. Use a 
first-class rawhide or whalebone whip. Take the 
tinware in your right hand and the line that is 
fastened to the bit in your left hand. Pull the 
horse's head around a little towards you and snap 
the tinware on the crupper, but remember to 
keep the horse's head checked up as high as possi- 



- 19 - 

ble. The over check is used to punish him when 
he makes any attempt to kick. When he kicks at 
the tinware give him sudden jerks with the lines. 
Say "Stop it!" or "What are you doing?" Be care- 
ful. Speak sharply and firmly. 

You may also step beside your horse with the 
whip in the right hand and line in the left and 
crack him on the hind leg with which he is kick- 
ing at the tinware. Whip him on that hind leg 
until he will almost sit down, but keep jerking on 
the line in the left hand and talking to him as 
mentioned before. 

As soon as he obeys your command and stops 
kicking at the tinware, reward him for it by pat- 
ting him on the shoulder and telling him he is now 
doing all right. Then make the horse follow you 
again and test him as follows: See if he will 
again kick at the timvare. If he does, repeat the 
same lesson with the whip. 

When you have stopped your horse kicking 
with one hind leg, place the tinware on the other 
side of the crupper and allow it to rub against 
the other hind leg. You will generally find that he 
will kick with the other hind leg almost as badly 
as he did with the leg you have already worked 
on. Treat this leg exactly as you did the other. 
When you have about stopped him from kicking 
at the tinware, reach back and take hold of the 
tinware and rattle the pans up and down. Be 
sure to keep the line in your other hand so he can- 
not turn around and kick you. When he makes 
any attempt to kick you, jerk the line and talk to 
him. By jerking the line you punish him for do 
ing wrong by hurting his mouth. He will soon 
learn that when he does wrong he will be pun- 
ished for it. 



After you have him so that he will not kick 
at the tin pans with either leg, push the lines 
through the tug strap, step back of the horse with 
lines in hand and the tinware still hanging on the 
crupper and say "Got up!" Drive him and see it 
he will kick. If he does, give him a sudden jerk 
with one line and tell him to stop it, or speak to 
your horse the same as you did when you were 
working beside bim with the whip, before you 
started to drive him. You may also give him a 
very sharp crack with the whip at the same timu 
you jerk on the lines. 

After you have gained your point and you 
find there is no more kicking for the time being, 
put your horse back into the stable, take the har- 
ness off and allow him to remain there for about 
two hours. Then repeat the lesson. Give your 
horse about three lessons a day for about three or 
four days. 

When you get readj- to harness him to a rig, 
harness him to a long shafted cart or in some kind 
of a rig that he cannot damage by kicking. When 
he makes any attempt to kick, remember to give 
him that sudden jerk with the line, and talk to 
him very firmly, the same as you did when work- 
ing beside him. Don't fail to keep his head checked 
up, as this is one of the best kicking straps you 
have. When you have your horse going along 
smoothly, place the end of your whip down be- 
tween his hind legs and test him to see if he will 
kick. If he shows any signs of kicking, remember 
to jerk the lines, and speak firmly to him. Make 
him understand that his hind legs are not made to 
kick with. If you will carry out my instructions, 
1 will guarantee that you will not fail to accomp- 
lish your point. If at first you don't succeed, try, 
try again. Remember this and you are bound to 
succeed. 



- 21 - 




The above cut represents Prince, a horse 
owned hy a prominent physician in Belleville, 
who was an all-around bad performer — unruly, 
kicking, bucking, balking and with other vicious 
tendencies. After numerous horse trainers had 
for years vainly attempted to break the animal, 



and having exhausted all their strategies and ex- 
periences, they gave up in utter disgust and ad- 
vised either to kill the animal, cast him on the 
junk pile, or have him sold at any price. He un- 
fortunately fell into the hands of Prof.Hagerling, 
who not only subdued him within a very short 
time, but he was also harnessed and drove in a 
buggy. Within a week he had not only brought 
him into fine condition for a driving and buggy 
horse, but had taught him many tricks, and has 
used him for a while as a show horse. The author, 
in subduing this animal, followed exactly the 
same instructions contained under the article en- 
titled "The Most Successful Method of Breaking 
Bad Kickers Without the Use of Hobbles or 
Double Safety "Rope." This is one of a great many 
horses the author has trained by following the 
rule laid down under the head just mentioned. 



Back Hobbles for Bad Kickers. 

When you have a bad kicker, one that will 
raise himself up under the kicking strap, or one 
that you think it is impossible to drive, or one 
that you want to put in double harness and you 
fear he will demolish the wagon or kick the horse 
working with him, work on him as follows : Get 
a collar and surcingle. Take a rope about an inch 
thick and four or live feet long. Get a pulley 
large enough to take the rope. Have another rope 
about eight feet long and four straps an inch wide 
and long enough to go around the hock. Have a 
buckle on each end of the straps. Then get two 
rings two inches in diameter. Place the collar 
on the horse. Tie the end of the four-foot rope 
to the pulley. Pass the eight-foot rope through 
the pulley. Put on the surcingle. Take two of 
the straps and one of the rings. Pass these two 



- 23 - 

straps through the ring. Then buckle the straps 
around the horse's hind leg above and below the 
hock. Draw up tight so the straps will not slip 
down. Do the same with the other two straps on 
the other hind leg. Then pass the four-foot rope 
through the lower ring in the surcingle, or if you 
have no surcingle you can pass it over the belly 
band of the harness. The surcingle or belly band 
is used to keep the weight of the pulley up so it can 
not swing under the horse's body. Pass the other 
end of the four-foot rope between the front legs 
and tie it to the lower part of the collar. Then 
take one end of the eight-foot rope and tie it in 
the ring that is on the horse's left hind leg. Take 
the other end of this rope and tie it in the ring on 
the right hind leg, but do not give the ropes too 
much play. Keep them pulled up as tightly as 
possible. The pulley is used to allow the horse to 
walk or trot freely with the rope fastened to his 
hind limbs without interfering with his stride. 

If you have a horse that is a bad kicker and 
want to work him, place the back hobbles, as the 
above are called, on the horse, and you will find 
that he will be just as good a driver as your best 
broken horse. When he finds he cannot reach out 
with his hind legs he will go on about his busi- 
ness and you will feel safe behind him. This 
method can also be used by breeders to prevent 
kicking. 



A Particular Point to Protect Your Life 

When out Driving Behind a Horse 

That Should Kick Suddenly. 

One point in particular I would like to call 
your attention to in the handling of a kicking 
horse when driving. If, when upon the road, your 



- 24 - 

horse should start to kick, you must, in order to 
assure absolute safety, leave the vehicle. This 
can easily be accomplished by pulling the horse's 
head around to one side as far as you can with 
one line, and holding it in this position until you 
are out of the vehicle and can get the horse un- 
hitched. By thus pulling his head around and 
holding it you can prevent him from doing any 
more damage. You will find in another part of 
this book the methods of handling the kicking 
horse. 



Placing a Crupper Underneath the Tail of a 
Nervous Kicker. 

In placing the crupper underneath the tail 
of a spirited and inveterate kicker, the left line 
should be taken in your left hand, with the crup- 
per and the arm gently placed on the hip of the 
animal. The line should be held firm and tight in 
your left hand, while with your right hand you 
reach down and take hold of the tail. The tail 
should b)e raised high enough so that you can 
pass the crupper underneath it. It should then 
be lowered on the crupper as lightly as possible, 
and never allowed to come down suddenly. If 
the horse should try and turn his hind quarters 
towards you to kick, pull firmly on the line that is 
in your left hand and say in a firm tone of voice, 
"Stand!" This is done to draw his head towards 
you and turn his hind quarters in the other direc- 
tion. It should be remembered by my reader 
never to stand behind the horse when adjusting 
the crupper. Always be on your guard. For an 
extremely bad kicker have someone to assist you. 
Have your assistant take a buggy whip in his 
right hand and take hold of the halter rope with 
his left hand, as close to the halter as possible, 



- 25 - 

and step about two feet in front of the horse, 
then pass the whip between the ears and rub 
briskly up and down, and at the same time he 
should talk to the horse, saying he is going to 
place that crupper underneath the tail. Keep on 
talking to the horse until the crupper is placed 
underneath the tail. In talking to the animal you 
will draw his attention away from his hind quar- 
ters. 

In this connection I may state that the above 
plan also works well when bridling a head shier, 
with the exception of rubbing the whip briskly 
on the hind legs between the hock and the fet- 
lock, instead of between the ears as heretofore. 
The assistant should work the whip the same as 
a violin player rubs his bow over the strings of 
the violin. A horse in this connection is some- 
what like a human being, when the hair are 
combed there is no thought given the feet. In 
other words, two different things are not thought 
of at the same time. It should be remembered 
that the operator must work on the horse very 
lightly while placing the bridle on the head, and 
the crupper underneath the tail, while on the 
other hand the assistant must exert and make 
every effort to detract the horse's attention as to 
what the operator is doing. 



How Some Drivers Cause Their Horses to 

Kick When the Lines get 

Under the Tail. 

In the first place, when you are breaking your 
colt or horse, try to keep the lines from getting 
under the tail. If they should happen to get under 
the tail don't get excited and pull as hard as you 
can in order to get them from under the tail. The 



- 26 - 

harder you pull on the lines, the tighter the horse 
will draw his tail towards him, causing the lines 
to be drawn up to the crupper. If you continue 
trying to pull the line out from under the tail, the 
horse will also continue drawing his tail towards 
him, and it will not be long before there will be a 
sore spot beneath the tail. In a few days the spot 
will get very sore, and when the lines touch the 
sore spot the horse will begin to kick. From that 
time on when the line gets under the tail you can 
always look for trouble. 

Now, if the horse should happen to switch 
his tail over the line, do not be in too great a 
hurry to pull it out. Instead of pulling, slacken 
it and let the rein drop down below the tail and 
pull it over to one side. Then raise your line. If 
you will practice this when breaking your colt, 
you will avoid in the future the trouble of break- 
ing the kicking habit. 



Dimensions for Making Shafts for Breaking 
Horses, Used by the Author. 

Length of shaft arms from shaft bar, 6 feet 
9 inches. 

Distance from shaft eye to shaft bar, 25 
inches. 

Shaft iron, 1 1-4 inches by 3-8 inches, 4 feet 
iong. 

Size of shaft, 1 5-8 by 2 1-4 inches. 

Size of shaft across bar, 1 5-8 by 2 1-4 inches 

Shaft checks, 3 feet back from end of shaft 
points. 

Two side braces, 1-2 inch round, 15 inches 
long instead of shaft T. 

Bolt in shaft bar 4 inches from end. 

Single tree plates on single tree and shaft 
bar. 






- 27 - 

Breaking shafts, as per dimensions heretofore 
mentioned, are a very good thing to have if you 
have no breaking cart. Your blacksmith can 
make them for you, or you can obtain them by 
freight or express by sending $7.00, express or 
post office money order or bank draft, to Prof. F. 
J. Hagerling, Belleville, 111. 

These shafts can be used in your buggy and 
answer the purpose of a long shaft cart. If you 
have your blacksmith do the work have him make 
the shafts extra long to protect yourself from be- 
ing kicked. They should be made of the best 
hickory. One pair of these shafts, if well takei] 
care of, should last twice as long as a breaking- 
cart. They can be preserved by giving them a 
couple of coats of linseed oil. 



The Breaking Harness or Surcingle. 

Any harness-maker can make this training 
harness by following the description below. It 
is used by horsemen generally: 

Cut left side or billet end 3 inches wide and 
34 inches long, including billet. A small ring for 
turnback is sewed on top of the surcingle with a 
snap forward to take the check rein. 

Two and one-half inches from center attach 
a 1 3-4 inch ring to answer as terret. 

Six inches from center attach a 1 1-4 inch 
ring to fasten shaft tug strap. The shaft tug 
should have a snap on the end so it can be snapp- 
ed to the ring when the animal is to be hitched to 
buggy or cart. The ring here mentioned hangs 
downward. 

Eighteen inches from center of surcingle 
attach a 1 3-4 inch ring, terret fashion. This ring 
is used to pass one of the safety driving ropes or 
lines through. The last 12 inches of this side of 



- 28 - 

the surcingle is tapered, to two inches in width 
to answer as billet to take the opposite side of 
surcingle, which has a 2-mch buckle attached to 
it. This completes the left side of the surcingle. 

The right side of the surcingle is made the 
same as the left side until you get to the belly 
band, which has two rings in terret fashion. 

Two and ont-half inches from center place a 
1 3-4 inch ring to answer as terret. Six incheb 
from center attach a 1 1-4 inch ring to fasten 
shait tug strap, the same as on left side of sur- 
cingle. 

The whole surcingle can be cut in one piece 
3 inches wide to go all around the horse, or it can 
be cut in two pieces and sewed together in center. 

Eighteen inches from center of surcingle 
place a 1 3-4 inch ring in terret fashion to take 
safety rope or line, the same as on the left side. 

About 6 inches from buckle place three 2- 
inch rings in terret fashion about 2 inches apart, 
to be used for the double safety ropes when it be- 
comes necessary to throw the animal or bring 
him to his knees. 



The Working of the Double Safety Rope 
and How to Use it. 

Place on your horse a bridle with extra long 
lines. Put around the body a surcingle and on 
each front leg below the fetlock a footstrap. Take 
a rope twenty feet long and pass it through the 
lower ring of the surcingle, then through the 
footstrap ring that is on the right front leg. 
Bring it back and pass it through the next lower 
ring in the surcingle and then down through the 
footstrap ring that is on the left foot, and tie il 
in a slip knot. Take the lines and pass them 
through the side rings in the surcingle. Step 



- 29 - 

back of your horse with the lines and whip in 
your right hand and the rope in your left. Now, 
if you have a horse that is afraid of different ob- 
jects or that is very nervous, place on him the 
double safety strap and have two men assist you. 
Have them bring up to the horse drums, tin pans, 




paper, flags, umbrellas, etc., or if you have 
friends with automobiles, have them run these 
along the side of the horse. When they bring 
these objects up to the horse and he tries to get 
away from them, pull on the rope and bring the 
horse to his knees. Keep him in this position un- 



- 30 - 

til he gets over his nervousness. Continue in this 
manner until the horse is satisfied that these ob- 
jects are harmless. 

Have one man on each side of the horse and 
have them introduce the noisy objects back of the 
horse. This will make the horse think he has a 
chance to get away from the objects. It will give 
the operator a better chance to pull the horse on 
his front legs and control him. Continue this un- 
til he is not afraid to have the objects rubbed ail 
over him, and will allow the automobiles to come 
as close as possible and stand perfectly quiet. 

Give the horse two or three lessons a day, an 
hour each time, for about three days. You wiil 
find that you have a well-broke horse. 



How to Make the Foot-Strap. 

Get a strap 18 inches long with a buckle on 
one end. Then take a ring 2 1-2 inches in diame- 
ter and rivet it on the strap 2 inches from the 
buckle. Get a piece of sheepskin with wool on 
it. Sew this sheepskin around the strap with 
the wool turned out, so that in using this foot- 
strap, as it is called, the hair will not be rubbed 
off of the animal's leg. 



How to Make the Training Bridle Used by 
Prof. Hagerling. 

Have your harness-maker make a leather 
bit 6inches long with a 1 3-4 inch ring on each 
end of bit. Then buy a No. 1 grade cotton rope 
20 or 25 feet long and a 3-4 inch pulley. Cut off 
32 inches of rope. Loosen the strands of 4 inches 
of this small rope and pass it through one of the 
rings of the leather bit. Plait the bit into the 
rope. Pass the other end of this small rope 



- 31 — 

through the pulley. Unplait 4 inches and plait 
it back into the rope to hold the pulley. The 
length of this rope between the ring and pulley 
should be 24 inches. Now take the long rope and 
unplait 4 inches at one end. Pass this end of the 
rope through the ring to which you plaited the 
small rope. Then pass the other end of the rope 
through the other ring of the bit. Pass it through 
the pulley, then back through the ring you passed 
it through before and your training bridle is 
complete. 

To place this training bridle on your horse's 
head, place the bit in his mouth and pass the two 
ropes over his head. Pull on the rope and draw- 
it up. Have the rope that has the pulley plaited 
to it close behind his ears. Place the other rope 
on the top of his neck about 8 inches back of his 
ears. The pulley should be on the left side of his 
head. The pulley is used to allow the rope to 
work freely and to allow the bit to come down 
when you stop pulling on the rope. 

This training bridle can be used on all ner- 
vous horses while introducing to them different 
objects. In using this bridle it is not intended 
that the rope shall be tied to the horn of your 
saddle and the unhalter-broken horse be dragged. 
This training bridle is so severe on the horse that 
if drawn up too tight it will cause the mouth to 
become sore and then swell. Therefore I would 
advise you to use some judgment while using this 
training bridle. In another part of this book you 
will find what can be accomplished with this 
bridle. (See page 32.) 



- 32 - 

The Working of the Training Bridle Used by 

Prof. Hagerling. How it is Used and 

What You Can do With it. 

When you have a horse that is afraid of a 
steam roller, threshing machine, automobile, lo- 
comotive, band of music or any other object, 
place on him one of the training bridles used by 
Prof .Hagerling. Take the whip in your right hand 
and the rope in your left. Step in front of your 
horse 5 or 7 feet away, crack the whip in the air, 
and you will find that the horse will try to get 
away. Then hold tight to the rope and say 
"Come here!" When he stops pulling step up to 
him, loosen the training bridle and reward him 
by patting him on the shoulder. Step away from 
him again and use the words "Come here." Crack 
the whip in the air above his head, but be careful 
not to hit him on the ears or any part of the head. 
If you do you will have four or five times as much 
work on your hands. 

When you want him to follow you to the 
right, tap him on the right hind leg and say 
"Come to the right." When you do this it teaches 
him that if he does not follow you to the right 
when you command him he will be punished for 
it. When you wish your horse to turn to the left, 
work the same way as you did with the right leg. 

After you have your horse so that he will 
follow you without pulling on the rope, put the 
rope on his neck and, without holding it, say to 
him "Come here!" If he does not come, take 
hold of the rope again and give him a sudden 
jerk, using the same words as before. Be very 
firm. Speak loud. Make him understand that 
you mean every word that you say. Try him 
again without holding the rope, but keep one eye 
on your horse and one on the rope so as not to 



33 - 




- 34 — 

have the rope fall off and the horse step on it. 

After you have your horse following you 
properly take him out with the above named 
training bridle. Lead him up to objects that he 
is afraid of. When he tries to pull away, pull 
on the rope and say "Come here!" Tell your 
horse that it is not going to hurt him. Don't be 
afraid that he will get away from you, as the 
training bridle will do the work. It is so severe 
that the horse would rather stand the fright 
given him than have you tighten up the 
rope. Introduce tin pans, drums, flags, umbrel- 
las, sleigh bells, etc., to your horse. If your horse 
is afraid of such small objects, place the training 
bridle on him, take the rope in the left hand and 
the object in the right. Don't bring the object up 
suddenly and rattle it, but stand between the ob- 
ject and the horse, rattle or shake it a little ana 
bring it up to him slowly: He may try to gel 
away, so pull on the rope. After he begins to 
stand, loosen the rope again and continue with 
the noisy objects until you can pound and rattle 
and shake and drum all around him without his 
trying to get away. 

Repeat this lesson about three or four times 
a day for one week and you will have the best 
city-broke horse in town. 



A Few Pointers on how to Ride a Bucking 

Horse Without having him to Buck 

Under Saddle. 

I fully realize the task one has to place a sad- 
dle on a bucking horse. The task can be very 
materially obviated by placing on the animal's 
head your riding bridle, and over that the train- 
ing bridle, and then put the saddle on his back. 
If the horse should be restless and nervous while 
you are putting the saddle on him, pull on the 



training bridle rope, draw it tight and tell your 
assistant (one should always be at hand in at- 
tempting things of this kind) to step away from 
the horse with the saddle. After he has become 
quiet from the punishment administered by the 
training bridle, loosen the part that is around his 
head, then pat the horse on the shoulder and say 
to him, "I am going to place that saddle on your 
back," at the same time motioning to your assist- 
ant to bring the saddle to you. Now, if the horse 
tries to get away from the saddle, the same as be- 
fore, again pull on the training bridle rope, You 
will find that after you have drawn the training 
bridle tight about a half a dozen times, he will 
then stand to adjust the saddle rather than have 
you pull the training bridle rope. Having the 
saddle on his back, the lines should be placed on 
his neck close to his withers, or on the saddle, 
take the training bridle rope in your left hand, 
and, standing alongside of the horse, take hold of 
the stirrup with your right hand and rub, shake 
or flap it alongside of the horse. Should the horse 
move, buck or jump, pull on the training bridle 
rope and at the same time saying to him, "Stop 
it ! Be careful !" When he becomes quiet again, 
loosen the rope and pat him on the shoulder. 
Now repeat the same over again with the stirrup 
until he becomes perfectly gentle and quiet. This 
accomplished, you should work on the other side 
of the horse in the same manner. When you want 
to get on his back, keep his head pulled around 
to one side just a little with the training bridle 
rope in your left hand. By keeping his head 
turned to the left you prevent the horse from pull- 
ing his head around in the other direction and 
whirling his hind quarters toward you for the 
purpose of kicking. Then you should take hold 
of the saddle horn with your right hand and place 



- 36 - 

your left foot in the stirrup, all the time, of 
course, talking to the animal in a firm tone of 
voice, "I am going to get up on that saddle!" or 
words of that kind, in order to divert his atten- 
tion from the thought of bucking. Continue in 
this manner until you think it is safe to bring 
your other leg over the saddle prepared to sit in 
it. Always bear in mind when you are doing this, 
keep talking to the horse and, should he make the 
least move, pull on the training bridle rope. The 
thing for you to watch very closely after you are 
in the saddle is to be careful not to touch his girt 
with your heels. If you do the probability is he 
may buck. The horse may have been rode before 
by a person wearing spurs, and that may be a sig- 
nal to him that you may want him to buck. There- 
fore, be very careful to keep your heels away 
from the girt. 

Now, the moment you sit down in the saddle, 
pick up your lines and place them. in your left 
hand with the training bridle rope and pat the 
horse with your right hand on the right side of 
his neck, as close to his shoulders as possible, 
then pat him on the left side and at the same time 
say to him, "I am now sitting in the saddle and 
vou are doing all right," or words to that effect. 
Continue to talk to him until the animal can 
place confidence in you and knows that you are 
not sitting on his back to hurt him. T want to es- 
pecially mention the fact that should the horse 
start to buck while you are on his back, pull the 
training bridle rope and lines slightly and do not 
allow him to get his head down. If the horse rais- 
es up in front let slack on your training bridle 
rope and lines. If you continue pulling while he 
is raring up, you may pull him backwards and he 
might accidentally fall on you. 



- 37 — 

When you want your horse to go, let slack on 
your lines and rope and say to him, "I am now 
ready to go," at the same time giving him the 
click, click, click, or you can say, "Get up !" If he 
refuses to go, see whether the training bridle is 
not too tight in his mouth. If it should be, reach 
over and loosen it up, then ask him to go again. 
Should he still not start, pull him around to the 
right with the right line, then pull him to the left 
with the left line a little and say at the same time, 
"Get up!" If the horse should still fail to heed 
vour command, have your assistant hand you a 
small riding whip, then go through the same pro- 
cedure as just mentioned. When you pull your 
horse to the left, give him a gentle tap with the 
whip on his hind quarters, and I assure you, you 
will have no trouble in starting him. Don't allow 
the horse to go faster than a walk. You can ride 
the horse for about an hour or two until you 
think the horse has enough confidence in you to 
know that you are his friend and not his enemy. 
You are especially cautioned not to dismount 
your horse too hastily, but take your time to do it. 
Dismounting hastily has a tendency to frighten 
the animal, and you will have a very difficult task 
to break him of this habit. 

In this connection I will give you the benefit 
of my experience for your perusal and careful 
consideration. In the first place, after you think 
you have rode the horse long enough and want to 
dismount, pat him on the shoulder and say, "I am 
now going to get off of your back." Talk to your 
horse the same as you would to a friend. My ex- 
perience has been that if the horse is properly 
taught to do your bidding, he is your best friend 
on earth in need. Now, after you have patted 
him on the shoulder, pull his head around to the 



- 38 - 

left just a trifle with the training bridle rope, 
then lean over to the left side of the horse and 
press your weight down on the left stirrup. Sit 
back in the saddle again, as though you were go- 
ing to ride him. Continue along in this manner 
until you think it safe to take your right foot out 
of the right stirrup in order to get off of the 
horse. When you have your right foot on the 
ground and he still remains quiet, don't take your 
left foot out of the stirrup, but get back into the 
saddle the same as you have done heretofore. It 
is always the best policy to work on the horse's 
most difficult parts when the horse is tired and 
worked down. 

Now that you have rode your horse success- 
fully and want to make a saddle horse out of him, 
give the animal about two or three lessons a day 
for about a week or two. During the time you are 
training your horse, let me say to you, never at 
any time let your ire or patience get the best of 
you, but always remember that you can accomp- 
lish a great deal more and get quicker results by 
being kind and gentle to the animal. Should the 
horse kick at. you or get somewhat refractory, 
keep your head and just give him a slight pull on 
the training bridle rope, and then reward him by 
patting him on the shoulder. You can rest as- 
sured that if these instructions are fully carried 
out, your efforts will be rewarded. Your colts can 
be worked in the same manner. 



How to Teach a Nervous Saddle Horse to 
Stand Until You Are on His Back. 

There are a great many saddle horses that 
are somewhat nervous or restless until you are 
on their back. When you have a saddle horse 



- 39 - 

that will not stand but will go backward and for- 
ward when you are about ready to mount, place 
your riding whip in your right hand and your 
reins, or lines, in your left hand, stand alongside 
of your horse, place your right hand on the back 
or front part of the saddle, have the end of the 
whip directly above the back part of the horse 
when you start to mount him. Now, if the ani- 
mal backs up or goes forward, give him a slight 
tap with the whip by turning your hand a trifle, 
without taking your hand off of the saddle, and 
at the same time command your horse with a 
very firm voice to stand. Should he move for- 
ward after you have tapped him, give him a sud- 
den jerk with the lines and again command him 
to stand. After your horse becomes quiet, reward 
him for it by patting him on the shoulder. Now 
try and mount your horse again, and if he does 
not try his old trick over, place your foot in the 
stirrup, bear down and shake the saddle. If the 
horse backs or moves forward, repeat the lesson 
heretofore stated. After you are on his back, 
don't allow him to start or back up until you are 
ready. Compel him to stand for a minute or two. 
This can be accomplished in the way just stated. 
Always remember to reward the horse when he 
becomes quiet. In that way your horse will noon 
learn when he does wrong he is punished for it, 
and when he does right he is rewarded for it. 



Dispositions of Horses; How to Judge Them. 

Horses, just like people, vary in disposition. 
You will come in contact with horses that are of a 
very excitable temperament, frightening at the 
least small object or thing that they see. Then, 
again, there are horses that are very treacherous, 



- 40 - 

vicious, mean and sullen, and others again that 
can be trusted to drive anywhere. Horses of 
these various dispositions can usually be detected 
by closely scrutinizing the head and noting the 
different features which are herewith given you. 
In the first place, horses generally with no 
intelligence and a very sluggish disposition have 
nostrils that are small and thick, the eyes are 
sunk back into the head and very small, the ears 
are long and tapering, and the hair very thick 
and long on the inside, and the head between the 
eyes and the ears is very narrow. This is a 
horse of no intelligence and of a very sluggish 
disposition. 

Horses that are nervous, intelligent, quick 
and ready to obey your command, whenever giv- 
en, you will find the head broad between the eyes 
and ears, the eyes are large and full and stand 
out very prominently, the ears are short and 
furry on the inside and somewhat pointed on top, 
and the nostrils are very large. Horses with the 
above characteristics can safely be trusted any- 
where, and very seldom need a whip or spur to 
get them to move along. 

The most vicious and dangerous horses can 
be readily recognized from the fact that the head 
is bulged out between the eyes, with a sort of a 
Roman peak running from the middle of the head 
to the nostril. The head comes in on the top, very 
narrow between the eyes, extremely small eyes, 
sunken back toward the side of the head, and a 
Roman neck. This kind of a horse must be very 
closely watched, as they have some bad trait, such 
as kicking, balking, a tendency to run away, 
plunging, striking and the like. 

In casting around for a horse, and observing 
the characteristics just enumerated, you will 



41 



have no trouble in picking an animal to your lik- 
ing. Nature has been very kind in implanting the 
horse's disposition on his head, and can not be 
treated lightly or with any indifference. 



Things That Cause Horses to Balk. 

Some drivers harness their horses in a heavy 
wagon when they start to break them, thinking 
a horse cannot do much damage to a wagon. They 
will get into the wagon, crack the horse with the 
whip, and say, "Get up." The horse may prob- 
ably lunge forward and go along nicely for 
awhile. He may work well for a few days. Then 
he may begin to balk. 

Without examining a horse some drivers 
will whip him and try to make him go, but it is of 
no use. Such a driver will give up hope and put 
the horse in the stall for that day. The next day 
he will have the same trouble over again. The 
horse soon learns tfyat when he balks he does not 
have to work, and this makes him the worst kind 
of a balky horse. If he balks, examine him to see 
if there are any sore spots where the harness 
may have rubbed him. If you find this the case 
buckle the harness away from the sore spots. 
You can then get into your wagon and ask him to 
get up; he will go forward, as nothing will be 
hurting him. When you get him home, get five 
cents worth of pulverized alum and dissolve it in 
a pint of water; rub it on the sore spots and it 
will harden them. 

A good plan is to place all of the harness on 
the horse as tight as possible about one week be- 
fore you harness him to a buggy or wagon. This 
will harden the places where the harness fits. II 
is not necessary to harness a horse to the heaviest 
wagon you have. If you have no breaking carl 



— 42 - 

have a blacksmith make a pair of long and strong- 
shafts. Flace these in your buggy so that the 
horse can do no damage. You will find in another 
part of this book how Prof. Hagerling's shafts 
are made, or they can be purchased from the in- 
ventor for seven dollars. By using a light rig 
you get less balking and not so many sore spots. 

It is not a good thing to put a severe bit in a 
horse's mouth when breaking him, nor is it wise 
to pull on the lines when you ask him to go. 
Slacken the lines and give him his head. Don't 
allow the horse to pull with the bit instead of 
with the trace. More horses are made balky in 
this way than in any other. 

If a horse braces his legs in a balky position, 
crack him on the legs with the whip and say, 
''stand straight." Compel him to stand squarely 
on four legs before you ask him to go. 

We also have some who cause their horses to 
balk by driving them too fast the first time or 
two they hitch them up and place them upon the 
road. I mean by this, that if your horses should 
stop in the road and refuse to go, don't do as the 
majority of drivers do, but let him take his time 
and treat him with kindness. Most drivers, in 
handling a balky animal, get the idea into their 
heads that as soon as a balky horse has been 
started he must be driven as fast and as hard as 
possible in order to break him of this habit. This 
is not the case. Practice of this kind will make 
him all the more balky. The second time he makes 
a stop with you, after he has been treated in this 
manner, you wili find that he is a great deal more 
obstinate and much harder to start. Why? Be- 
cause he has been tired out, leg worry, completely 
pumped out of wind, and feels that he has been 
misused ; where, on the other hand, if he had been 



- 43 - 

started and driven easily from his balk he would 
soon have learned to forget the habit, perhaps 
entirely. Driving your balky horse as hard as 
he can be driven only wears him out and makes 
him more contrary in this respect. Kindness and 
easy driving is the secret of breaking a horse of 
this habit and getting the best service out of him. 
Put yourself in the place of the horse, and after 
you had refused to do something and then agreed 
to try it have some one over you with a whip or 
other means of persuasion to keep you at the job. 
How much longer you would work if you were 
treated with kindness. The same applies in the 
case of the horse. 



How to Break Balky Horses. 

There are quite a number of different meth- 
ods of training balky horses. There are many 
kinds of balky horses. Some will stand and turn 
the head around to one side as much as to say, 
"I absolutely refuse to pull the weight of your 
hat if you command me to." When you have a 
horse of that disposition, take both lines in one 
hand, but keep a firm grip on that line on the side 
that the horse's head is turned towards you and 
make him bring his head back to his side as far 
as possible. After you have your horse's head as 
far back as you can draw it, pick up your whip 
and tap him on the end of his nostrils very light 
ly, at the same moment ask him what he wants or 
how he likes it. Keep him in that position and 
tap his nostril until you think he has enough. 
Then slacken the line that you are holding with 
a firm grip and pull his head around to the other 
side a little. The moment you pull his head 
around with the other line say to him, "Get up, 
sir!" with a firm voice. Sometimes a crack of 



- 44 - 

the whip will assist you in getting your horse 
started after you have straightened his head out, 
and sometimes it will not. If he refuses to do 
this, repeat the same lesson, and tap him on the 
end of his nostrils a little harder every time you 
repeat it. You will find that when he begins Lo 
learn that he is getting punished for turning his 
head around to one side, h© will soon break him- 
self of that habit. 

Now, when you have a horse that will stand 
with all four legs stretched out and it is almosi 
impossible for two men to pull him off his feet, 
just place a bridle and harness saddle on him. 
Pass your lines through the tugs, step directly 
back of your horse with the whip and lines, and 
say to him, "Get up!" Use a loud and firm voice, 
and at the same time give him a crack with the 
whip on the hind legs. If he refuses to move, tie 
a rope around his neck and pass the rope through 
the mouth and back through the loop that is 
around his neck. Have some one to assist you. 
Tell your assistant to stand about ten feet away 
from the horse, with a firm grip on the ro- 
Then step back of your horse with the lines and 
whip, saying, "Get up!" The moment you say 
this strike the horse's hind legs with the whip. 
Have your assistant instructed to give your horse 
a very sudden jerk with the rope he is holding. 
Say the words get up, crack the horse with the 
whip, and have the rope jerked all at the same 
time. You will find that it will surprise your 
horse so suddenly that he will not only move for- 
ward, but he will make a lunge to try to get away 
from that spot. After you have your horse start 
ed do not allow your assistant to keep pulling on 
the rope. Tell him to step back of the horse. 
When he stops again use the word whoa. Make 



- 45 - 

your horse think you stopped him. Allow your 
horse to stand i'or a short time. Then ask him 
to get up. If he refuses to go, repeat the same 
lesson until you have accomplished your point. 

When you see your horse is getting too 
warm, take him to a shady spot and allow him to 
cool off for an hour or so. Then begin your work 
over again. 



Compelling the Horse to go to the Right or 

Left When he Wishes to go to 

the Left or Right. 

We find that some horses have the very bad 
habit of not answering to the directions given 
them by the reins in regard to turning to the 
right or left. Some of them persist in turning to 
the left when directed to the right, and vice versa. 
Now, I have a very simple but most effective 
method of effecting a cure in this case. 

Hitch your horse to the buggy in the usual 
manner, taking with you some person in the bug- 
gy as an assistant. Drive the horse into a lot of 
sufficient size to drive him in a circle. Drive the 
horse around the lot in a circle to the right. If 
he refuses to go and will not answer to the strain 
upon the right line, follow the directions here 
given closely to effect a cure. Step out of the 
buggy yourself, leaving your assistant in the 
buggy. Take the right line and pull it through 
the harness saddle ring, leaving the left line ui 
its proper position and in the hands of your as- 
sistant in the buggy, so that he can guide the 
horse with that line while you are working upon 
him with the right line. Then with your line 
step away from your horse about ten feet. In 
this position, line in hand, tell your assistant in 



— 40 — 

the buggy to command the horse to go ahead, 
with the command of get up, accompanied with 
a light tap of the whip. As soon as the command 
is given, give the line in your hand a sudden jerk. 
l.)o not step in front of your horse while going 
through these operations. After you have the 
horse started make him walk in a circle about 
twelve times and then, putting the strain on both 
lines, have your assistant give the horse the com- 
mand to stop by using the word whoa. Walk to 
your horse and reward him by patting him on the 
shoulder. After he has been allowed to stand a 
short time, tell your assistant to ask your horse 
to go. If he does not go, give him no warning, 
but a very sudden jerk with the lines. If you do 
this the horse soon learns that if he will not obey 
you he will be punished. Then get in the buggy 
yourself and try to drive the horse around in a 
circle to the right. If he refuses to go, repeal 
the above, but be a little more severe. Repeat this 
lesson until you have taught your horse and gain- 
ed your point. To make your horse make a left 
circle give him the same lesson with the left line 
that you have done with the right. 

If these instructions are followed as I ex- 
plain them any horse may be taught and broken 
of this bad habit. 



47 



How to Make a Balky Horse Work. 

When your horse balks in a light buggy and 
will not pull, try to start him by leading him by 
the lines. If he fails to start by pulling on the 
lines, take the buggy whip and tap him on the 
back part of the front legs between his elbow and 
knee. He will start to dance, and in short time 
he will learn that as long as he stays in one place 
he will be punished. If that fails to start him, 
walk up, take hold of him a little above his nos- 
trils and close down on same. This prevents his 
breathing, and when he finds out he is getting 
short of breath he will begin to shake his head 
and try to get away in order to regain his breath. 
When he begins to fight your hand away from his 
nostrils loosen your hold on him, take hold of the 
lines, give him a sudden jerk, and say, ''Get up!" 
Do not try to hold his nostrils until he falls down 
for the want of air. Never hold the breath from 
your horse too long, as I do not believe in punish- 
ing a horse too severely. If the above fails, sit 
up in your buggy very firmly. Take both lines in 
your left hand and pull the right line towards 
you so that the horse's head will be pulled around 
to his shoulder, looking directly at the driver. 
Then take a whip and tap him on the end of his 
nostrils. For the first two or three times tap him 
lightly, and then tap him harder. Slacken your 
lines and puil his head around to his left side with 
the left line, and say, "Get up !" If he does not 
want to start the first time repeat the lesson, but 
be more severe each time. When you undertake 
this be sure that you have a strong pair of shafts, 



- 48 - 

as the horse may twist, balk and then throw him- 
self. When this method fails, take a rope twenty 
feet long. Tie a knot in one end. Two feet from 
the knot make a loop. Place the rope over the 
neck of your horse, pass the tight knot through 
the loop, and draw the loop tight so the tight knot 
cannot slip out. You then have a loop around 
your horse's neck that cannot choke him. Use 
a strap on the rings of your bit, which will make 
a chin strap. Then run your twenty foot rope 
through the chin strap. Have a boy or man 
stand directly in front, or a little to the side, oi 
the horse holding the end of the rope. The driver 
in the buggy should count two and say to the 
horse, "Get up, sir!" at the same time giving tiu 
horse a crack with the whip and having your as- 
sistant pull the rope. Never pull steadily on the 
rope, as your -strength is not equal to that of the 
horse. Pull the rope in sudden jerks. By doing 
this you wear the horse out. It is best to jerk 
him to the right and then to the left. By doing 
so you compel him to move. He finally gets tired 
of being pulled by the head and will start to walk 
at your command. 



How to Make a Balky Horse Work Under the 
Saddle. 

When your horse is balky under the saddle 
and will not go the way you want him to, hold hit 
nostrils with your hand and hold his breath until 
he begins to fight for air. Turn him in the direc- 
tion that you wish him to go, give him a tap with 
the whip and tell him to get up. If he hesitates, 
take his breath away again, the same as before. 
Give him another sharp crack with the whip and 
tell him to get up. If he starts and goes in the 
direction you wish him to, reward him. Say to 



- 49 - 

him, "You have done just exactly what I asked 
you to do." Speak to your horse as you would 
talk to a person. By speaking to your horse the 
same as you would to a person he will begin to 
learn everything you say to him. I believe some 
horses have more sense than a great many people. 
When the above fails, draw his head around 
towards you with the left line. Make him turn 
around to the lef fc a dozen times, or until he gets 
dizzy. Slacken the left line and pull him to the 
right. Start him in the direction that you wish 
him to go, give him a tap with the whip on the 
hind quarters and say "Get up !" at the same time. 
If he does not go in the direction you want him to 
go try it again, but whirl him around a little long- 
er. This plan works well. 



Making a Balky Horse Work in Double 
Harness 

When you have a balky horse harnessed up 
beside a well broken horse and he refuses to go 
forward when you ask him to, place around his 
body, close to his hips, a rope 10 feet long and 
make a slip-knot in it so you can draw it tight. 
Fasten the other end of the rope to the true 
horse's collar. Have the rope tight enough sc 
that when the well-broken horse begins to pull he 
will draw it still tighter. Get into your wagon, 
pick up the lines and tell the true horse to get up, 
tapping him with the whip. The true horse will 
start, drawing the loop tight around the balky 
horse's body. When the balky horse finds that the 
rope is getting tight he will soon go forward. 

Do not sit on the same side of the wagon 
that the balky horse is hitched to, as he may kick 
when the rope tightens up. Keep your eye on his 



heels when giving this lesson. Ii* you wish to find 
out how severe this system is, try it on your 
family broken horse and you will be likely to see 
some fun. 



To Break a Balker that Walks Backwards, 
Kicks and Fights the Whip. 

Place on your horse a halter, surcingle and 
foot-strap on the right front leg. Lead your horse 
to a nice soft spot and throw him about ten times. 
(You will find in another part of this book how Lo 
lay your horse down.) After you have thrown him 
these number of times, put a bridle on his head. 
Take a rope about 20 feet long and pass it through 
the lower ring on the surcingle, down through the 
ring that is on the foot-strap, back through the 
surcingle ring and tie it. Run the lines through 
the lower side rings in the surcingle, take the 
whip and lines in your right hand and the rope 
that is in the surcingle in the left hand, step back 
of your horse and tell him to get up. If he fails 
to move crack him on the hind legs with the whip. 
If he balks and tries to kick you, pull on the rope. 
Compel him to stand on three legs. After you 
have his front leg up, give him three severe 
cracks on the hind legs with the whip, then slack- 
en the rope and tell your horse to get up. If he 
will not go, but still balks, do the same thing over. 

After you have your horse so that he will 
move forward at your bidding, place a breast 
strap and trace on him, get a rope 20 feet long 
and tie each end of the rope in the holes of the 
trace. Ask some one who is standing near by to 
take hold of the rope that is fastened to the trace. 
Then again ask the horse to get up. If he does 
not move, give him a crack with the whip. If lie 
starts to hack, pull on the rope fastened to the 



- 51 — 

surcingle. Tell the man who is holding the rope 
fastened to the trace to pull lightly the moment 
you ask your horse to go ahead. When the horse 
pulls a little of the man's weight tell the man to 
pull a little harder on the trace. After the horse 
has pulled the weight of one man, make him stop 
at the word whoa. When you use that word, make 
him stop right then and there. Don't allow your 
horse to go further. Make him understand that 
you are his master. 

Never work your horse more than an hour at 
a time. After working him for an hour put him 
in the stable for a rest, then work him again the 
same as you did before. Do this three or four 
times a day. In the evening harness your horse 
to a light rig and you will find your horse pretty 
well trained. The next morning give him another 
lesson the same as before, harness him to your 
buggy and he will start off without any trouble. 

When you undertake to break any balky 
horse never lose your temper, nor make any false 
motions, nor lie to your horse. Don't overwork 
yourself. Let your horse do all the work. When 
he gets tired and finds you are his master he will 
soon give in. Always be patient when training a 
horse and you will gain a great victory. 

I have been asked the question almost every 
day, "Can all balky horses be broken?" I will say 
there is not a balky horse living that cannot be 
trained if he is worked properly. I will also say 
that I would not like to have you think that all 
balky horses can be broken in one day. It requires 
sometimes a week or two weeks. It all depends 
upon what kind of a driver the balky horse has 
to educate him. If the balky horse has a balky 
driver he will never be trained, as we have more 
balky drivers than we have balky horses. I know 
every man cannot be perfect. It makes no differ- 



52 - 



once how balky a driver a man may be, if he will 
follow my system of handling horses he will meet 
with great success. Always reward a horse that 
has done what you commanded him to do. 



Balkersthat Lie Down or Throw Themselves. 

Some horses lie down when they are balking, 
or throw themselves. When you have this kind 
o'l a horse, don't try to get him up by beating him 
with a hickory club, a barrel stave or a fence rail, 
or tie a chain around his neck and fasten a team 
of horses to it. Instead of this, kneel down on 
one knee close to your horse's head, placing your 
hand on the ground if you wish a resting place. 
Keep your hands off of his neck. Blow in the 
horse's ear and sometimes he will be up in a few 
seconds. When this fails tap him on the ear or on 
the leg below the fetlock at the coronet or on the 
end of the nostril, tapping a little harder each 
time you repeat it. When this fails raise his nos- 
trils up in the air and pour some water into them. 
You will find that the horse will not stay on the 
ground very long. If this fails hold his nostrils 
shut,, cutting off his breath, and he will fight for 
air. If he does not get up saturate a handkerchief 
with ammonia and hold it to his nostrils. Don't 
place your hand on the horse for a resting place 
and do not keep the handkerchief on his nostrils 
too lone, as he might get used to the ammonia and 
stay on the ground. When your horse is up re- 
ward him by patting him en the shoulder. 



Breaking a Horse from Pulling Back. 

A pulJ-back norse is not a very desirable 
horse to own, as he will make you miserable every 



time you are compelled to tie him and leave him 
alone, as you do not know when he will break the 
hitchmg-strap and run away. On such horses I 
have used the following method with great suc- 
cess : Place on your horse a strong halter. Take 
a rope about 15 feet long; throw one end over the 
horse's back, reach under his body and take hold 
of the end of the rope and pull it towards you. 
Make a slip-knot in the end. Take the other end 
of the rope and pass it through the slip-knot and 
then between the front legs and up through the 
chin-strap of halter. Push the rope that is around 
the horse's body back to the hips as far as possi- 
ble, with the slip-knot under his body. Draw it up 
a trifle, but not too tight, as the horse may jump. 
After you have this completed, tie the horse to a 
stout post. Take paper, umbrellas, flags, tin pans, 
etc., and shake them in front of the horse. Sud- 
denly compel him to pull back. Do not hurt your 
horse with the objects you use to frighten him. 
You will find the moment he pulls back the loop 
that is around his body will tighten up. The horse 
will feel this probably quicker than the man who 
is operating on him finds it out. When he finds 
that something hurts him when he pulls back he 
will go forward, and he will almost climb the 
hitching-post in order to get relief. 

Continue this lesson until he stops pulling 
back, and repeat it two or three times a day for 
six days. If you carry out the above properly and 
are very firm with your horse, you are bound to 
break the horse from pulling back. » 



Another Easy Method to Keep the Horse from 
Pulling Back. 

Take a small cotton rope about 10 or 12 feer 
in length. Fasten a metal ring about a foot from 



- 54 - • 

one end of this rope. At this end of the rope 
fasten a snap of sufficient size to take the ring. 
Now, when the snap is fastened into the ring it 
will form a loop in the rope. Pass the portion of 
the rope between the ring and snap under the 
horse's tail and snap the snap onto the ring, mak- 
ing a loop around the horse's tail similar to the 
crupper. Pass the other end of the rope through 
the ring in the harness saddle and also through 
the ring in the bit and tie the rope to a stout post. 
Let your horse stand. The moment he pulls back 
the rope will tighten around his tail and cause 
som.p pain. When he finds that pulling back al- 
ways causes this pain he will give up the idea of 
pulling back. This method will effect a cure on 
the majority of horses, but in some cases it will 
not be effective. The trial will cost but little and 
is worth testing. 



What You Can Accomplish With Your Horse 

by Whirling Him Around With 

His Head and Tail. 

When you have a horse that is hard to bridle, 
put a halter on him and have some one help you 
hold the bridle so it can be handed to you when 
you call for it. Then take hold of the halter in 
your left hand, and the tail with your right hand. 
Draw tail and head together as close as possible 
and whirl the horse around until he becomes dizzy. 
Then stop short and with a firm voice say to your 
horse, "Stand!" Take the bridle as quickly as 
possible and place it on your horse's head and re- 
peat the word, "Stand!" Practice this method six 
or eight times a day for a week or so, until you 
have attained success in easily bridling the horse 



- 55 

How to Get a Shaft-Shier in the Shafts. 

When you have a horse that is hard to get 
into the shafts, have some one hold up the shafts, 
ihen whirl the horse by his head and tail, as previ- 
ously explained. When you are about to stop 
turning, see that the tail end of the horse is to- 
wards the shafts and say to the horse, "Stand!' 
Then tell the assistant to bring the shafts over 
the horse's back as quickly as possible. The oper- 
ator with a rein in his left hand should take a 
shaft in his right hand, and the helper should 
stand on the right side of the horse with a shaft 
in his left hand and a rein in his right hand. Rub 
the shafts on the sides of the horse until the horse 
is satisfied that he is not going to be hurt. Then 
take the horse out of the shafts and repeat the 
lesson until he will stand and not jump around 
while you are putting him in the shafts. This is 
,a perfect remedy for a shaft shier. The best and 
easiest time to gain this point is after you have 
taken a long drive. 



Whip Breaking, or Teaching the Horse to 

Come to You When You Enter His 

Box Stall. 

When you have a horse that is a little unruly 
when you enter his box stall, one that turns his 
heels towards you, not allowing you to get to his 
head to place the bridle or halter on him, take 
a buggy whip in your right hand and halter or 
bridle in your left hand. Enter the stall and say 
to your horse, "Come here!" If he refuses to 
turn his head around towards you, give him a 
crack on the hind legs with the whip, saying at 
the same time, "Come here !" Continue this until 
he turns his head towards you. Don't fail to re- 
ward him when he has done the right thing. 



— 56 - 

Be sure to see that the horse has plenty of 
space in the stall, so that you will have room to 
get away from his heels if he kicks at you when 
you tap him with the whip. This he is very like- 
ly to do. If the stall is not large enough for you 
to operate in, stand at the stable door. By stand 
ing at the box stall door you can get away from 
his heels when he lets fly with his hind legs. You 
can easily break this bad habit if you carry out 
these instructions. 



Stopping the Horse from Pawing in the 
Stable 

Some horses are in the habit of pawing in 
the stable. In order to break this annoying habit, 
buckle a strap large enough to go around the 
horse's leg above the knee. Then fasten on this 
strap a chain about a foot long with a small piece 
of wood on the end of the chain. When he starts 
to paw the chain with the piece of wood annoy 
him. This device will surely stop his pawi in- 
habit. 



Teaching the Horse to Lie Down. 

Put on your horse's head a halter with a rope 
about 8 feet long. Place around his body a sur- 
cingle and put a foot-strap on the right front leg. 
Now take a rope about 10 feet long and tie it ir: 
the ring of the foot-strap. Pass this rope over 
the horse's back and then take the halter rope and 
pass the end through the top ring of the surcingle 
and back through the halter. Take your position 
on the left side of the horse ; take the halter rope 
in your left hand and the rope that is fastened to 
the foot-strap running over the back in your right 
hand. Tell your horse to move up a step, and 
when he does this pull on the rope that is in your 
right hand and draw his foot up to the body. Then 



pull on the halter rope and bring his head around 
to one side as far as you can, and, pressing your 
weight against his side, say to him, "Lie down, 
sir!" Repeat these w r ords until you have your 
horse down. 

When he is down don't forget to keep his 
head pulled up to one side. If you allow him to 
have his head free for the first few minutes after 
you lay him down, you will find that he will not 
stay ther3 very long, but will soon be up. After 
he is down step close, pat him and say, "This is 
what we call lying down." When he has become 
a little quiet test him to see if he will try to rise 
by allowing his head to be free. Slacken your 
halter rope just a particle. If you find he is be- 
having himself, give him a little more rope until 
his head is on the ground. When he makes any 
attempt to get up pull his head back quickly and 
say, "Lie down!" in a very firm voice. Repeat 
this until he stops trying to get up, until you are 
ready to have him up. Don't keep him down more 
than 10 or 20 minutes at a time. When you lay 
your horse down don't lay him in a cinder pile or 
any rough place. Try to find some smooth place, 
such as a clay or grassy spot, and you will ac- 
complish this trick without much difficulty. 

After you have your horse so that he will lie 
down without much trouble, use a small whip on 
his front legs. Pull his head down with the halter 
rope and say, "Lie down, sir!" If he refuses tc 
draw his legs in and kneel on them, it will be 
necessary to repeat the above lesson until he finds 
that he must do as you command him, that is, lie 
down just by the motion of the whip to his front 
legs and the words "Lie down!" It requires a 
week or two, sometimes a little longer, to teach 
this trick. It all depends upon the trainer hand 
ling the horse. Don't be cruel, but be firm and the 
horse will soon learn that your word is law. 



- 58 - 

A Different and Much Safer Way to Lay the 
Horse Down. 

Put on your horse a strong halter. The haltei 
rope does not need to be as long as that used in 
the other method. Place around the body a sur- 
cingle and put a foot-strap on the right front leg. 
Take a strap about a foot long with a buckle on 
one end and pass this strap through the ring of 
the foot-strap. Raise the leg up towards the body 
and pass the strap through the lower ring on the 
surcingle. Then buckle the ends of the strap to- 
gether. Take a rope 15 feet long and about half 
an inch thick and tie one end of it on the left side 
of the top ring of the surcingle., and pass the 
other end of the rope through the chin-strap ot 
the halter. Then bring the rope back through the 
top ring in the surcingle. Now step away froir. 
your horse about 10 feet and pull on the rope 
drawing his head around to one side. Say to him, 
"Lie down!" Repeat this until you have your 
horse down. Now, if your horse should happen to 
rare up and fall backwards, slacken the rope and 
free his head so he will not fall on his neck while 
his head is drawn around to one side. Be careful 
to watch this one point. If he happens to fall on 
the wrong side allow him to get up, and repeat the 
lesson until he wiil lie down on the right side. 
When he is down, work on him the same as in the 
previous lesson. 

When you wish to get your horse up, un- 
buckle the strap connecting the foot-strap and 
surcingle, and allow him the freedom of his head. 
This gives him the full use of his legs and head 
and he can get up without difficulty. 



- 59 
What You Can Accomplish With Your Horse 
While You Have Him Lying Down. 




"When you have a horse that is very nervous, 
afraid of different objects, etc., lay him down and 



- IX) - 

have a couple of men bring to you different ob- 
jects to shake and rattle about your horse whil? 
you are holding the halter rope that passes 
through the surcingle and halter. When he makes 
any attempt to get up pull his head back as far as 
possible. Tell him you are not going to hurt him. 
Take an ordinary wash boiler, tin pans, dish pan, 
bed sheet, etc., and rattle and shake them about 
the horse until he is satisfied he is not going to be 
hurt, If he is afraid of the crack of the whip you 
may also crack the whip around him or bring up 
to him any objects while he is down. Do this un- 
til he will lie perfectly quiet. 

After you have him conquered on the groun-J 
with the objects that have frightened him, allow 
him to get up. Then test him again with the sam 
objects. If he shies from them, lay him down 
again and repeat the same lesson on the ground. 
Repeat this until you have gained your point. 

Stopping the Horse from Biting. 

Some horses have the habit of biting or nipping 
while being cleaned. Sometimes while standing 
clo^e to them they will nip you. Some are called 
man-eaters. When you have a horse that will nip 
at you while he is being cleaned, stand beside him 
with the curry comb in one hand and a small stick 
in the other, but don't let the horse see the stick. 
Rub the curry comb on the horse at the spot that 
generally causes him to bite, but keep your eye o 
him when he reaches for you with his teeth. Tap 
him on the end of his nostril with the stick as 
quickly as possible and at the same time 
"Stop that!" in a very firm voice. By using this 
method your horse will soon learn that nipping is 
a habit that he must give up or else be punished 
for it. When your horse is in the habit of biting 
when standing close to him, tie him to a stout 
post with' a good halter. Stand beside him with < 



- 61 - 

stick concealed m your hand and wait for him tc 
nip at you. Then do the same as you would for a 
horse that bites while cleaning him. For an ex 
tremely bad biter or man-eater, one that with his 
mouth wide open will chase you out of the box- 
stall, it is well to place the horse in a twenty-four 
foot pen six feet high. Get a thirty-eight calibre 
revolver. Load it with blank cartridges. Enter 
the pen with the revolver in the left hand and a 
good raw hide whip in the right hand. At tb j 
same time crack the whip in the air, drawing tht 
horse's attention. If he comes at you with his 
mouth open, shoot one of the blank cartridges ii 
the air close to the horse. When he turns his 
quarters towards you crack him on the hind legs 
with the whip and say, "Come here!" Now if hr. 
comes at you wildly and you see that there is nc 
stop to him, let him have a little of the powder and 
he will soon stop running at you. When he comes 
towards you slowly meet him half way, but keep 
your revolver pointed ahead of you and let him 
smell the smoke close to the barrel. In a short 
time you will be able to lead him or handle your 
horse anywhere without much trouble. Repeat 
this lesson if necessary until you have your horse 
under perfect control, 

Another simple method to use on biting 
horses is an electric battery. Get an electric bat- 
tery, having some one to assist you in operating 
it. Stand beside your horse with the ends of th? 
battery wires in one hand. Rub your horse on the 
spot that will cause him to bite. When he nips at 
you, bring the ends of the battery wires towards 
his nostrils and give him a slight shock, but re- 
member to be on your guard when the wires touch 
his nostrils so he cannot kick or strike you when 
he receives the sudden shock. This is a very sim- 
ple method to break the horse from biting if it 's 
carried out properly. 



- 62 — 

How to Saddle or Harness a Horse That 

Strikes Viciously With His Front Legs. 

When you have a horse that fights with his 
front legs, take a rope about 30 feet long. Double 
the rope, step on the left side of the horse and 
throw the rope under his body. Have some one 
on the right side of the horse to pick up the end 
of the rope you throw under. You keep hold of 
your end of the rope. Then both raise the rope 
and step in front of the horse, keeping the ropj 
close to the horse's arm so he cannot get his legs 
over it. Pass the two ends of the rope through 
the other part of the rope where it makes its 
turn. Give a fast and steady pull, forming a loop 
around the horse's two front legs. Keep pulling 
on the rope. If you do not keep a steady pull li€ 
will soon fight his front legs out of the rope and 
you will have to do the work over again. Aftet 
you have both front legs fastened together, step 
to the left side of the horse with the rope close to 
his hind legs. By keeping the rope close to his 
hind legs you protect the man that is putting the 
saddle or harness on the horse from being kicked. 



A Fighting Horse, or Head Shier; The Cause 
and Cure. 

Many of my readers doubtless have horses 
that strike viciously with their front legs, and 
very decidedly fight to ward off any attempt 
made to take hold of the head. The fault lies, in 
a great many cases, nowhere other than in the 
teeth. A veterinary should be called in to thor- 
oughly examine the teeth, or should you care to 
inspect them yourself, throw the horse down and 
open his mouth to see whether there are any 
sharp projecting molars or sharp projecting 



— 63 - 

points on the molars. Should the canine teeth 
be there, examine them for tartar, and if not, 
look at the gums for a swelling or inflammation 
where the teeth are to come. The projecting mol- 
ars grow long and tapering and grind out the op- 
posite jaw teeth, thereby working their way into 
the jaw bone. These teeth should be cut off with 
the molar cutter and then filed smooth on the 
edges. The sharp projecting points are found on 
the inside of the lower molar and outside of the 
upper molar. They vary in size, some being 
small and blunt, while others are long and very 
thin and sharp. The injury they work will be in 
proportion to their length, thinness and sharp- 
ness of the points. When you find such a state of 
affairs with your horse's teeth, take a float and 
file the points off. The point should be filed al- 
most as smooth as a billiard ball. 

,The canine teeth come between the ages of 
4 and 5 1-2 years. While they are making their 
appearance the gums become red, hard, inflamed 
and very sore. To relieve the pain incident there- 
to, take a knife and cut crusial incisions through 
the gums down to the coming teeth. In this re- 
spect the horse is somewhat like a child. When 
the child begins to cut its teeth the gums become 
very sore, and if the gums are touched the least 
bit the child will fight your hand away in order to 
protect the inflamed or sore gums. Should the 
horse have his canine teeth, closely scrutiniz? the 
teeth for tartar, which usually accumulates 
around the teeth; the tartar sometimes gathers 
so thick that it causes inflamation in the gums. 
The tartar should be scraped off of the teeth with 
a gouge. Therefore, always bear in mind that 
when you have a fighting or striking horse, the 
trouble, as a general rule, is in the horse's teeth. 



- 64 - 

How to Stop a Run-away Horse. 

When your horse is getting ready to run 
away, sit in your buggy very firmly, take both 
lines in your right hand and reach out with your 
left hand and take a very firm and tight hold of 
the left line, giving your horse a sudden jerk with 
this line. Keep his head pulled around to his left 
side. By doing so you stop your horse from get- 
ting started to run away. When you pull his head 
around to the left side use the word ''Whoa" a 1 
the same time. You will then draw his attention 
away from the object that he is frightened at. If 
you cannot pull his head around to one side in 
time before he gets started to run away, hold to 
him as steadily as you can. Keep your eyes ahea. 
of your horse and guide him so he will not run into 
anything that is in front of him. I would advise 
you to keep shouting, "Look out ahead!" so the 
people that are ahead of you will know that you 
are coming and keep out of your way, and stop the 
wagons and cars that are about to cross over your 
path at the street corners. Never lose your nerve. 
Keep up courage. When your nerve is gone it will 
cause weakness, and the slightest turn your horse 
makes will cause you to fall out of your buggy. 
Never jump out of your rig when your horse i 
running away ; stay with him as long as he lasts. 
There are more people killed or crippled by jump 
ing than by staying until the horse gets tired anO 
stops. 



— 65 - 

The Last Resort to Stop a Horse from Run- 
ning Away. 

Horses that are in the habit of running away 
in many cases can be cured of this habit by cut- 
ting away or drawing the first lower molar. This 
takes away the firm support for the bit, which 
will then draw directly against the angle of the 
mouth. It is always best to use this as a last re- 
sort, however, after having tried other means 
mentioned in other parts of this book. Should an 
examination show the edges of the molars to be 
rough, it is best to dress them down smoothly. 



Making a Horse Proud When You Wish to 
Sell Him. 

Tie the horse in a stall. Stand beside your 
horse and rattle a chain at him, also tapping him 
with the chain to get him a little excited. After 
you have him worked up, place the chain in your 
buggy so you can rattle it with your feet. Then 
harness your horse to a buggy. When you want 
him to show style, kick the chain and he will look 
as though he were worth twice the amount that 
you are asking for him. 

For race horses that are hard to get to start 
while scoring you can use the chain in the above 
manner to good advantage. Tap the horse a few 
times in the stall. Then take him out on the track. 
Have some one stand beside the track with the 
chain in his hand and when the driver turns the 
horse around have the man rattle the chain. The 
horse will think of the punishment he received in 
the stall with the chain. You will have little diffi- 
culty in starting the horse after he hears the 
rattling of the chain. 



- 66 - 
Teaching the Horse to Carry a Handkerchief. 



Place the handkerchief in your horse's moulh 
between his upper and lower front teeth. Hold 
his mouth shut and say, "Carry the handker- 
chief." You will find that he will try hard to get 
it out of his mouth, by working his tongue agains t 
it. When he does this press on his upper ai d 
lower lips a little harder until he stops trying t: 
get the handkerchief out of his mouth. Make him 
hold it for a short time. Then take it. Repeat 
the lesson until he understands what you want 
him to do. After he has learned this it will take 
only a little more time and patience to make him 
take the handkerchief out of your hand or pocket 
when you command him to do so. It sometimes 
requires a week or a month to get the horse to do 
this properly. 



Teaching a Donkey to Buck and Throw 
Person off his Back when the Person 
Tries to Ride Hirp. 




Take a rope about ten feet long and tie it 
around the donkey's body. Push it back towards 



- 67 - 

his hips as far as possible. Take hold of the 
other end of the rope and give sudden jerks. 
When the rope tightens up the donkey will begir 
to buck, that is, if he has any life or "ginger" in 
him. Don't make him buck longer than ten min- 
utes at a time. If ycu work on the animal too 
long he will soon get tired of bucking, therefore, 
the shorter the lessons you give him the quicker 
you will have a bucking donkey. After he does 
his bucking "stunt" properly, place a boy on his 
back. Use no saddle and have only a halter o; 
the donkey's head. Start the donkey, and if he 
refuses to buck prick him in the flank with a pin. 
When he bucks four or five times tell the boy it 
fall off if the donkey has not already thrown him 
off. Then allow the animal to rest ten minute? 
and repeat the lesson. You will find that when 
the donkey learns that he is throwing some one 
off of his back he will begin to like the sport, and 
it will soon be almost impossible for any one to 
stay on his back without a saddle or bridle. 



Teaching a Horse to Count With His Front 
Leg. 

With a pin prick the horse between the knee 
and elbow on the back part of the left arm. Say 
to him, "Tell me how many days in the week you 
want your master to work." Keep pricking him 
until he raises his front leg. When he does so 
pat him on the shoulder and say, "You have done 
all right," and repeat this again and again until 
he will stamp his foot two or three times. Re- 
ward him again. Then begin again and keep 
counting with every strike he makes until he 
counts up to seven. Brace up and pat him on the 
shoulder. Practice this for three or four tirries a 
day for 15 minutes at a time. Use this method 
six days. When you are working on the front leg 



- (58 - 

with the pin, be careful that the horse does not 
strike you with his hind leg. It sometimes makes 
the horse a little angry and he will try to reach 
you with his hind leg. If he kicks at you give him 
a sudden jerk with the line or halter rope and 
say, "Stop it!" Be careful. Talk firmly and make 
the horse understand that you are his master. 
Don't give up until you have gained your point. 
After you have accomplished these tricks 
(counting, yes and no), take your horse out to 
your lady friends and show them what a smart 
horse you have. Say to your horse, "Tell me how 
many days in the week you want your master to 
work." Point the butt end of the whip to his arm 
and have him count to seven. Then straighten 
up and say to him, "How many days in the week 
do you want to work?" Point the whip to his 
withers and he will shake his head,meaning none. 
Then say, "I suppose you want your master to 
work all the time?" Point the whip to his breast 
and he will bring his head down for yes. You 
can then ask him if he received a large quantity 
of corn or bats for breakfast; point the whip to 
his withers and he will give the answer no. You 
can ihrn ask your horse how many ears or corn 
he wants for his dinner, at the same time keeping 
the whip to his arm. Let him count twenty or 
thirty, take the whip from his arm and say, "Do 
you want a bushel or two?" Put the whip to his 
breast and he will bow for yes. You can ha\ 
great deal of fun with your horse and your 
friends will think you have a very intelligent 
horse. 



Teaching a Horse to Shake His Head for the 
Word "No." 

Take hold of the halter, but do not pull too 
hard, that the horse cannot shake his head. Prick 
the horse just above the withers slightly with a 
pin. He will shake his head, and when he does so 
reward him by patting him on the shoulder. Re- 
peat this again and again until he will shake his 
head by merely seeing the motion of your hand or 
butt end of your whip towards his withers. Af- 
ter you have taught him to shake his head by the 
motion of your hand or whip, take him to your 
friends and ask the horse some such questions as, 
"Do you like this bunch around here?" Bring 
your hand or butt end of the whip towards his 
withers, but so the people will not see what yo 
are doing. He will shake his head and your audi- 
ence will think you have a very intelligent animal. 
To teach this trick requires from a day to a week, 
practicing it 15 minutes each time for three times 
a day. Some horses are more easily taught thai) 
others. 

Teaching a Horse to Bow His Head for the 
Word "Yes." 
To teach a horse to bow his head for the word 
"yes," take a pin and prick him on the breast un- 
til he will bring his head down to his breast. Then 
reward him for it by patting him on the shoulder, 
telling him he has done all right. Then prick him 
again the same as before, and continue doing this 
until the horse will bow his head when he sees 
the motion of your hand or whip towards his 
breast. You will find that the horse will try to 
back up and get away from the pin, but when he 
does so, pull on the halter and say to him, "Come 
here !" or you may use the word "Stand !" Then 
walk to his side and prick him again, but make 



him stand until he does as you wish. While work- 
ing on your horse for this point, say to him, "I 
suppose you would like to have something to eat, 
wouldn't you?" or you may say to him, "Do you 
like your master?" or ask any question you please 
that can be answered with a nod of the head while 
working on him. This trick is very easy to teach 
the horse. It only requires a little time and pati- 
ence to accomplish it. 



Teaching the Horse to Turn Around on One 
Front Leg. 

Place on your horse a surcingle or harness 
saddle. Then fasten a foot-strap to his left front 
leg. Take a rope two feet long. Pass one end 
through the ring on the foot-strap and tell the 
horse to raise his leg up or pull it towards his 
body. Pass the rope through the ring in the sur- 
cingle or through the belly-band of the driving- 
saddle and tie the ends of the rope together. Take 
hold of the halter rope, or lines, if you have a 
bridle on him; have a short whip in your hand; 
give the horse a tap on the hind quarters; pull 
his head a little towards you, and say to him, "I 
want you to turn around on one foot." At the 
same time tap him on the front leg that you have 
tied up, so that when you ask him to turn around 
on one foot you will not have much trouble in 
making him raise his foot. When trying to make 
him turn around on one foot, after you have him 
so he will raise his leg wihout the use of the rope, 
you can get on his back and say to him, "I want 
>ou to turn around on one foot," and at the same 
moment tap him with the whip on the left leg. 
Give the horse this lesson about two or three 
times a day, 15 minutes each time, for six days, 
and you will find that you have taught him a neat 
trick. 



- 71 - 

How the Horse is Taught to get in Position 
for a Lady to Mount. 

There may be various methods in vogue for 
teaching a horse to get in a position so that a 
lady can mount him. The least troublesome and 
mcst effective way to accomplish this is to teach 
your horse to stretch out by placing on his head 
the training bridle. This training bridle will 
make the horse or colt do your bidding in a com- 
paratively short time, and with less trouble than 
any other method. If you have no training bridle, 
you can place on his head a halter and double the 
end of the halter rope that is fastened to the 
halter, pass it through or above the chin strap of 
the halter, then pass the rope through the mouth 
and take hold of the other end of the rope and 
draw it tight enough so that it will not slip out of 
his mouth. By using the halter rope in that man- 
ner it will act almost as severe as the training 
bridle. Now step in front of the horse, reach 
down and take hold of his right front leg and 
bring it out about a half a foot and place it on the 
ground. Then take hold of the left front leg and 
do the same as you did with his right leg, and at 
the same time 3 r ou are bringing his legs forward 
say to him, "Stretch out!" By constantly repeat- 
ing these words to him while you are working on 
the horse, you are impressing it on his mind that 
he will soon learn the meaning of your words, 
"Stretch out!" After you have both of his legs 
stretched out, reward him for it by patting him 
on the shoulder. Now, then, reach down and take 
hold of his right and left legs again and compel 
him to stretch a little further, until you have the 
horse appear as though he was a hobby horse. 

When teaching him this trick you will find 
that he will also move his back legs forward when 



you draw the front legs forward. In order to 
prevent this, place in your right hand a small 
whip and take in your left hand the training 
bridle rope, or halter rope. Now, when he moves 
forward with his back legs, while you are work- 
ing on the front legs, give him a tap with the 
whip on the front part of his hind legs, and at the 
same time you do that give him a slight jerk with 
the rope and use the word "Stand!" After you 
have him so that he will stretch out for you with- 
out much trouble, you can tap him with the whip 
on the back part of the front legs, between the 
knee and the fetlock, and at the same time you 
tap the horse with the whip use the words, 
"Stretch out!" It is best to work on the one leg 
until he has placed it forward, and then on the 
other leg. If the horse doesn't do as you com- 
mand him to do when you tap him with the whip, 
don't lose your self-control and commence to whip 
and jerk him, but reach down and take hold of 
the front legs and draw them forward as you 
have done heretofore. To accomplish this trick 
it requires at least three lessons a day. You 
should never work the horse over fifteen minutes 
at any one time, for the simple reason that to 
stretch out for too long a time is a strain on him. 
This trick can be very easily accomplished in 
a week or two at the most, by closely following 
the rules just mentioned. When you wish to get 
on his back, stand alongside of the horse, pat him 
on the shoulder, place your left foot in the stir- 
rup, raise yourself half way on the horse, then 
get down off of him again and reward him for it 
by again patting him, and repeat with this a few 
times. Now, should he make an attempt to stand 
up while you are in the act of mounting, get down 
from off of your saddle, tap him on the back part 
of his front legs and say to him in a firm tone of 



voice, ''Stretch out!" Now try and get in your 
saddle again. You will find that it will take but 
a very few lessons to keep him stretched out 
while you are getting on his back. When you 
want the horse to stretch out after you are 
through, riding him, and wish to dismount, hold 
your lines tight, reach down with your whip and 
tap him on the back part of his front legs and 
say at the same time, "Stretch out!" You will 
find that your command will be obeyed without 
fail. 



Teaching the Horse to "Spanish Walk," or 
as Some People Call It, "Cake Walk." 




Teaching Prince, the 3-months-old Colt, to "Spanish Walk.' 



Place on your horse's head a riding bridle. 
Take a stick about a foot long, with about half 
dozen tacks driven through one end, so the sharp 
points of the tacks will protrude out on the other 



side of the stick. Hold this stick in your right 
hand and stand on the left side of your horse. 
Take the bridle reins in your left hand and give 
your horse a prick with the tacks on the back of 
the left front leg between the knee and elbow. 
Continue this until he will raise the leg up and 
bring it clown. When he does this for you, re- 
ward him by patting him on the shoulder. While 
you are pricking him, say to your horse, "Step 
high !" or you can say, "Spanish walk I" By using 
thes? words while pricking him he learns the 
meaning of the words, and after you have your 
horse trained he will know exactly what you want 
when you speak to him. When you have his left 
leg working properly, reach over to the right 
front leg and work on it the same as you have 
done with the left leg. When you have accomp- 
lished this with both front legs, have him step 
forward very slowly and tap him with the tacks 
first on one leg; and then on the other. If he raises 
his legs properly as you command him to do, 
place a man on his back. Let him take the lines 
in his left hand, and pulling on the lines a little, 
drawing his head towards his breast. Don't al- 
low the horse to walk fast. Place a small riding 
whip in his right hand and tell him to tap the 
horse on the back of the front legs with the whip, 
at the same time saying, "Step high !" or "Span- 
ish walk !" Tf he refuses to do as commanded, it 
will be necessary for you to step beside him and 
prick the horse with the tacks until you have ac- 
complished your point. When you begin to prick 
your horse watch his hind legs and be careful 
that he does not kick you while you are operating 
on his front legs. If he should happen to kick at 
you, give him a sudden jerk with the lines and 
tell him to stop it. It will also be easier to oper- 






- 75 - 

ate on your horse if you are beside a barn or a 
high fence so he cannot turn around and try to 
get away from the tacks while you are pricking 
him on his front legs. This trick cannot be ac- 
complished in one day or a month. To have him 
working properly it sometimes requires six 
months. It all depends upon the horse and the 
trainer. Some horses will learn more quickly 
than others, and some trainers are a little more 
firm with their horses than others. 

To teach the horse to ''Spanish trot" after he 
will "Spanish walk" properly, take a firm grip on 
your lines with the left hand and pull the horse 
up. When he is about ready to step out with one 
of his front legs, tap him under the body and say, 
."Spanish trot!" With a few lessons such as I 
have just laid out for the "Spanish walk," after 
he has learned to "Spanish walk" properly, it will 
not take him long to learn to "Spanish trot." 



Teaching the Horse to Make a Funny Face. 

Place on your horse a halter or bridle. Take 
a pin, and take hold of halter rope or bridle lines. 
Stand on the left side of your horse with the pin 
in your left hand. Prick the horse between the 
two nostrils about two inches from the lower part 
of the upper lip and at the same time say, "Make 
a funny face." Repeat this funny face lesson 
quite often. He will try to pull his head away 
when you are pricking him, but stay with him; 
tell him to stand ; talk firmly to him ; and after he 
has shown you a sign of raising his upper lip, 
don't forget to reward him for it by patting him 
on the shoulder. This trick requires plenty of 
time and lots of patience. Don't give up until you 
have accomplished your point. Practice this 



- 76 — 

three times a day, 15 minutes each time, for five 
or six days. Then you can take him out to your 
lady friends and show them what a smart horse 
you have. Say "I want you to show the ladies 
what kind of a face they make when they see 
their sweetheart out with another girl." Point 
to the horse's nostrils and he will raise his head 
and turn up his upper lip. You will have a barrel 
of fun with the ladies. They will think you have 
the smartest horse in town and tell all the other 
ladies to come around and see that funny horse. 



Demonstrating and Explaining How You Can 

Make a Pedestal at Very little Cost, and 

how to Educate the Horse or Colt 

to Stand Upon Same. 

Get a shoe box about four feet long, a fool 
and a half high and two feet wide. Nail an extra 
top to it so the horse will not break through the 
box when he steps upon it. Then take two boards 
about eight inches wide and two and a half feet 
high. Nail one of these boards on each side of 
the box about three feet from the end of the box 
Have the boards extend about a foot above the 
top of the box. Then take another board the same 
width as the two that are now nailed to the box 
and nail it across the top of the two boards above 
mentioned. This will complete your pedestal. 
Any one who can handle a saw and hammer can 
make such a pedestal, and it will answer every 
purpose of an expensive, fancy horse pedestal. 

Make one of the training bridles described oil 
another page and place same on your horse or 
colt. Lead him up to the pedestal, take hold of 
his left front foot, and place it on the pedestal, at 
the same time saying, "Get on the pedestal !" Af- 
ter you have one foot on the pedestal, hold it theiv 



for a little while and pat the horse on the shoul- 
der. Then lead him away from it and bring him 
back to the pedestal again. Raise the leg and 
speak to the horse as you did before. Next time 
you bring him to the pedestal take a whip in your 
hand and tap him on the back part of the from 
leg between the elbow and knee with the butt end 
of the whip. If he refuses to step on the pedestal 
while you are tapping with the whip, assist your 
horse a little by raising the leg. Every time you 
bring him up to the pedestal be a little more severe 
with your horse until he does as you command 
him. After you have him working properly with 
the left front leg, pull on the training bridle and 
make him step up with both front legs. When he 
does this for you, reward him. When you have 
the horse trained so that he will step upon the 
pedestal with both front legs it will be an easy 
matter to get him to step upon the upper step of 
the pedestal in the same manner. Work on your 
horse fifteen minutes at a time, three times a da,y 
for six or seven days. After your horse has once 
learned this trick he will never forget it. 



— 78 - 

The photo herewith presented was taken 
from the life of "Queen," the high school mare, 
and "Princess," her three-months-old educated 
colt. The author has taught "Princess" to per- 
form many tricks, such as to lie down at his word 
or command, and she will not get up until he 
mention the words, "The scavenger is coming to 
get you." She will also carry a handkerchief to 
and from anywhere, kneel down, make a bow, 
count with her front leg, give you the "yes" and 
"no" signal by means of shaking her head, the 







Spanish walk, or better known as the "cake 
walk/' bring her up to another horse and tell her 
to talk to that horse, in which event she moves 
her mouth the same as any person would, stand 
on a pedestal, follow the author about the streets 
without being led, and numerous other tricks. 
The author taught "Princess" these tricks in one 
month's time. This will give you an idea w T hat 
can be accomplished with your colt at the age of 
three months. 



- 79 - 
How to Teach a Colt to Lie Down. 

To teach your colt to lie down, place on him 
a small halter with a rope about 8 feet long. Bring 
the rope up to the left side of the shoulder, pass 
it over the back, reach under the body and take 
hold of the rope. Then pass the other end of the 
rope through the lower part of the halter. Step 
close to the left side of the colt, reach down and 
take hold of his right front leg and pull it up to his 
body. Take the rope that you have passed through 
the halter in the left hand, pull the colt's head 
around to one side, put your weight against the 
colt and say, "Lie down !" He may fight you a lit- 
tle the first few times, but stay with him. Don"; 
give up, but continue until you have accomplished 
your point. This trick can be taught bv practicing 
three or four times a day for about a week. 



Breaking Colts. 

Some horse breeders start to work on their 
colts a day or two after they are born. Others allow 
them to run in the pasture and will not bother 
much about breaking them until they are four or 
five years old, thinking it will not take them very 
long to break their colts when they begin on 
them.. 

It does not hurt a colt to get him acquainted 
with you a day or two after he is born. Place a 
small halter on his head so that you can manage 
him while you pat him on the shoulder or rub your 
hands all over him. In a few days you can use the 
halter to teach him to follow you. Have a small 
whip with you. If the colt should happen to pull 
back and refuse to follow you, tap him very light- 
ly on the hind quarters w T ith the whip. By doing 
this you teach him that when he pulls back he is 
pumshed for it, and it will not be long before he 



- SO - 

will obey your orders. Continue in this manner 
when you bring your colt and mare to the barn 
from the pasture, until you have your colt thor- 
oughly acquainted with you and have him accus- 
tomed to the halter, or as it is commonly used by 
horsemen, halter-broke. 

When the colt is about four or five months 
old, place on him a small bridle and surcingle. 
Have a ring on each side of the lower part of the 
surcingle to pass the lines through, so when you 
are teaching your colt to drive he will not turn 
his head towards you. After you have the sur- 
cingle and bridle on the colt pass the lines through 
the lower rings in the surcingle. Step back of the 
colt with the whip and teach him the words "get 
up," "whoa" and "go to right and left," by slight 
pulls on the lines. Give him these lesson.^ 
you have him bridle-wise. You can then turn him 
out in the pasture and let him run until the next 
season. Repeat the lessons in your spare time. 

You can also introduce to the colt different 
objects that you think he might shy from if 
brought to the city. Colts that are educated when 
they are young will be properly broken by the 
time they are ready for the market, and they can 
be sold for from twenty-five to fifty dollars more 
than if they had been four or five years old before 
they were broken. I would rather break a half- 
dozen three-year olds than one four-year old colt. 
Between the fourth and fifth year a horse cuts 
sixteen teeth, four canine, four incissors and 
eight molars. During this time he often suffers 
greatly and it is more difficult to train him. While 
cutting these teeth he cannot eat much hard food 
and he gets thin. Therefore, to avoid trouble and 
save time, train your horses before they are four 
years old. 



- 81 - 
The Care of Colts in the City, Town or Pas- 
ture. --Making Large Horses When 
Colts are Matured. 

In order to raise large horses or mules in a 
small city or town, the mother of the colt should 
be fed just as much as she can stand. The feed 
should be well mixed with a little dampened bran 
and a half a handful of coarse salt should be 
added once a day. This gives the mother more 
nourishment for the colt. It is bad policy to take 
the colt away from its mother while feeding her. 
The mare should also be allowed to share some of 
the feed with the colt. You will find that the colt, 
while it is very young, will not touch the feed, but 
as it grows up from day to day, will commence to 
eat just a little bit, and so continue until it will 
eat just as well as its mother, when it is nearly 
three months old. By doing this you assist the 
mother in keeping the colt in far better condition. 
When you notice the colt getting poorer after it 
is about three or four months old, feed it out of a 
separate box away from the mother. Every time 
you feed the mare, feed the colt, when it is three 
months old, a half a pint of oats and bran mixed 
with enough coarse salt to flavor, and then damp- 
en. When the colt is four months old double the 
feed, and as the colt grows older increase its meal 
to a certain extent. After the mare and colt are 
both through eating, place them together. Al- 
ways keep first-class timothy hay before them, 
and dampen it with water so as to keep the dust 
down. By doing this you will preserve the colt's 
wind. Never, at any time, allow the mother to be 
without water. Always have a bucket of water 
placed before her, where it will be handy for her 
to drink. Should there be any grass in the pas- 
ture, let them eat as often as they want. In so do- 



- 82 - 

ing you will also give the colt some of the exer- 
cise which it should have. There are some that 
will wean their colts when they are about six 
months old, thinking that the colt has been with 
its mother long enough. If you want to have a 
large horse when the colt is matured, allow the 
colt to remain with its mother as long as it wnl 
care for it. The reader should also understand 
that there are times that the colt must be weaned 
when it is about six months old. Always bear in 
mind that plenty of good feed, good blood and lots 
of exercise is what makes good horses. It is a 
waste of money to breed horses, mules or any 
kind of stock without good feed. They should find 
something worth their time while they are rust- 
ling, or the rustling will do more harm than good. 
Exercise is excellent for the development of the 
bone and muscle, but it should be assisted by 
plenty to eac. A horse or mule makes its greatest 
stride in growth when it is a colt, and does it at 
the least cost. It is a business proposition to feed 
your colts while they are young. You can also 
let them run in the pasture during the winter. 
The exercise they receive there will do them 
good. But it must be remembered that the colt- 
should be put in the stable at night and be given 
plenty of good feed. Don't think for a moment 
because a colt will eat straw from a straw stack, 
corn stalks or any other kind of dry stuff, that he 
likes it or enjovs it. If he does this he is hungry 
and eats thn best at hand. 

You cannot lay too much stress on the fact 
that if you want good and sound stock, feed your 
colts while voung, as hereinabove stated, and also 
allow the colt to remain with its mother as long 
as it cares for it, unless there are conditions that 
compel you to separate them. 



Cleaning the Horse, 

After you have curried and brushed your 
horse and you still find there is a lot of dandruff 
in the hair, get some damp sawdust. Place a half 
handful of this on the brush and rub it into the 
hair until you think it has taken hold of the dan- 
druff. Then brush it off. Repeat this until the 
hair is perfectly clear of dandruff. If you have 
no sawdust handy, damp manure from the stall 
will answer the same purpose. If your horse is 
poor in flesh and you have him clean and shiny it 
will improve his looks wonderfully. 



How to Bed the Stall for the Horse. 

I here wish to take up the subject of the 
bedding of horses. This is also an important 
factor for the general welfare and health of your 
horse, and is not to be treated lightly. The first 
consideration to be given your stall is to bed it 
well with straw at night. In the morning the dry 
straw should be raked on the side and the wet 
straw thrown on the manure pile. In the evening 
take the straw that you have raked on the side, 
with a little more fresh straw, and put it under- 
neath the horse. By throwing away the wet 
straw and not using it again, you prevent the 
horse from smelling, as so many horses do 
throughout the country. I do not approve of 
bedding the horse with shavings or saw^dust, for 
the reason that it results in a great many differ- 
ent diseases in the hoof. My experience has been 
that the best bedding for horses having bad hoofs 
is tan bark, especially in summer. 



— 84 — 

Collars Versus Breast Blades or Breast 
Collars. 

Breast-collars should only be used for light 
driving or when using light vehicles on good and 
level roads, never for heavy vehicles or on muddy 
and hilly roads. . A regular collar should be used 
for pulling surreys and for lighter rigs when 
driving over hilly or muddy roads. 

Breast-collars, as generally adjusted, inter- 
fere with the free breathing of the horse, especi- 
ally when heavy pulling is necessary. The breast- 
collar is apt to press on the windpipe (trachea) 
and thus interfere with the free and full respira- 
tion necessary, especially when extra exertion u- 
needed. Horses under such conditions often stop 
and refuse to start readily again. The driver of- 
ten considers this as balking or obstinacy on the 
part of the animal, when it is only a matter of 
self-preservation and arises from the use of im- 
proper harness. Horses constantly worked under 
such conditions become permanently impaired, 
and the owner wonders why. 



— 85 — 
How to Tell the Age of a Horse. 



To tell the age of a horse by his teeth several 
factors have to be taken into consideration — the 
number of teeth, the formation, notches on the 
teeth, the slant of the teeth, as well as the reced- 
ing of the gums. Up to and including the age of 6 
years it is comparatively easy to tell the age of a 
horse by his teeth, that is, by the number of teeth 
only. After this period all factors enumerated 
have to be taken into consideration to adequately 
judge the age of a horse. 

The horse, when developed, has 40 teeth in 
all; the mare usually 36, rarely 40. Then the 
canines, that is, the eye and stomach teeth, are 
rudimentary and small in the mare and not so 
well developed as in the horse. The horse usually 
has two central, temporary incisors when born, 
and they show clear within the first week, and 
three molars also appear during this period. At 
the end of the third or fourth week the second 
incisors or cutting teeth can be seen peeping out 
from under the gums, and at the end of the sixth 
to eighth week the cutting teeth, incisors, and the 
crushing teeth, molars, are all up and formed so 
the horse can chew its food. From this time until 
the seventh month no change of consequence, 
further than growth of the existing teeth, takes 
place. At the eighth or ninth month the corner 
cutting teeth are through and almost on a level 
with the other incisor teeth. From ninth to 
twelfth month the fourth crushing tooth, which 
is permanent, appears. Let me add here that the 
teeth of a year-old horse look very much like a 
5-year-old, but one should be able to distinguish 
the horse from the yearling readily. A mistake 
can only be made with a pony left to shift for 



— 86 — 

himself on the prairies. At a year and a half the 
fifth molar, permanent, begins to appear, and at 
2 years is on a level with the other molars. At 2 
years the cutting teeth show signs of wear. From 
the second to third years is the time when horses 
may experience some trouble with their teeth, 
and many horses become thin and lank until they 
reach the fifth year. The temporary teeth begin 
to loosen and are shoved out by the permanent 
teeth underneath pushing forward. The gums 
get sore and congested at times. At 2 1-2 years 
the permanent teeth are pushed out and are 
recognized, being much wider and having deep 
grooves in the rear border. At this time the for- 
ward border of the teeth has not shown any wear, 
but three to six months later the surfaces begin 
to come togpther when chewing wears the front 
portion of the flat surfaces of the teeth. At 4 
years the rear edges also begin to show wear. At 
2 1-2 years the first and second temporary grind- 
ing teeth are shed and the permanent ones ap- 
pear. From the third to fourth year the lateral 
cutting teeth, incisors, come to show like the cen- 
tral ones. During this time the third molar ap- 
pears, that is, the permanent third molar. Be- 
tween the fourth and fifth years the horse suffers 
most from teething, as during this time the horse 
is cutting four permanent incisors, four canines 
and eight molars, making sixteen teeth which are 
growing at one time, and often the horse cannot 
thoroughly chew corn, hay or oats. At the end 
of the fifth year the horse has its full set of teeth, 
and from then on we must judge the age of the 
horse by the various factors enumerated at the 
beginning of this article. 

At 6 years the central cutting teeth have the 
cavities showing, but the edges show the central 



enamel which surrounds the hollow. In the corner 
cutting- teeth the cavities are surrounded by a 
line of worn surface. At 7 years the table sur- 
face or surface where the teeth meet is fully 
formed and the cavity very shallow. The central 
enamel is egg-shaped but rather large and nearer 
the rear portion of the tooth. The cavities of the 
lateral cutting teeth are egg-shaped, but nearly 
worn out of the teeth. In the central incisors or 
cutting teeth the central enamel is like a triangle. 
At 8 years the central enamel of the lateral cut- 
ting teeth is like a triangle and the cavities near- 
ly gone. At 9 years the age of the horse cannot be 
accurately told, however; the angle at which the 
teeth stand and the enamel on the flat surface of 
the teeth with cavities almost gone will determine 
the age. At the tenth year the central enamel of 
the middle incisors has disappeared and the cen- 
tral enamel of the side incisors is round and is at 
the rear border, and the enamel of the corner in- 
cisors is egg-shaped. At the eleventh year the. 
enamel of the side incisors has disappeared and 
that of the corner incisors is rounded. At 12 the 
enamel of the corner incisors has disappeared. At 
13 the flat surface of the central incisors has the 
shape of a triangle. At 14 the flat surface of the 
side incisors has the shape of a triangle. At 15 
the flat surface of the corner incisors has taken. 
the shape of a triangle. After this year it is diffi- 
cult to tell the age of a horse by the teeth alone. 



The Temporary and Permanent Teeth of the 
Horse. 

Temporary. 
Incisors — Three upper on each side, and; 
three lower on each side. 
Canines — None. 



Molars — Three upper on each side and three 
lower on each side. 

Permanent. 

Incisors — Three upper on each side, and 
three lower on each side. 

Canines — One upper on each side, and one 
lower on each side. 

Molars — Six upper on each side, and six 
lower on each side. 



Symptons of Bad Teeth. 

There are thousands of horses suffering day 
in and day out on account of their teeth. The 
upper jaw is about one inch wider than the lower 
jaw, which causes the upper molars to close over 
the lower teeth about half an inch on each side. 
The upper molars wear sharp and pointed on the 
outside of the teeth, next to the cheek, and when 
pulling upon the lines it causes the check piece of 
the bit to press against the cheek, pressing the in- 
side part of the upper cheek against the sharp 
edges of the upper molars, thereby causing the 
cheek to become sore and lacerated. The lower 
molars become sharp on the inside part of the 
teeth, next to the tongue, thereby causing inflam- 
mation and many times cutting large gashes on 
the tongue, when trying to masticate the food. 

The general symptoms which will direct 
your attention to the mouth are: Discharges of 
saliva from the mouth, with continual slobbering, 
while chewing the food ; difficulty of masticating 
the food proper, by passing the food through the 
bow r els without being masticated; bad breath as 
w r ell ; more or less discharge from the eyes ; ner- 
vousness; showing pain while drinking; throw- 
ing his head up and down while at work; run 
from one side of the street to the other ; driving 



uneven ; carrying his head to one side ; balling the 
food between the molars and cheek; lug on the 
lines; failing appetite and consequently a fallings 
off in condition, and making a hide-bound plug^ 
out of your horse ; causing colic and other diseas- 
es of the system on account of not masticating the 
food properly, and also causing the horse to fight 
the bit when being placed into his mouth, and 
sometimes strike viciously with his front legs. 

When the above symptoms are present, you 
should not fail to make a careful examination of 
the mouth by passing your hand into the mouth 
and feeling for the sharp edges, split and decayed 
molars, long projecting teeth, wolf teeth, and also 
examine the canine teeth to see if there is any 
tartar accumulating around them. There are a 
great many people who will give their horses con- 
dition powders when they are in thin flesh, hide- 
bound, and so on, thinking that it will put flesh 
upon them and bring their horses around in bet- 
ter condition, when in fact the sole cause is with 
the teeth. The teeth should be floated, filed or 
trimmed at least once a year after the animal be- 
comes five years old, and the mouth carefully ex- 
amined at all times for defects in the teeth. Take 
care of the horse's teeth and the teeth will take 
care of the system by masticating the food prop- 
erly. I believe the teeth should be taken care of" 
by a first-class veterinarian, the same as the 
hoofs are shod and taken care of by your black- 
smith. You will thereby not only be doing justice 
to your horse, but you will as well be doing justice 
to yourself, by saving large feed bills, different 
kinds of condition powders, and last, but not 
least, the saving of the life of your horse. 

In giving my exhibitions throughout the 
country, I have found that the majority of balky 



- 90 — 

horses were so for no other reason than that their 
teeth were the cause of it all. As the horse be- 
comes four years of age and up until five and a 
half years, he is cutting his tusks or canine teeth. 
When the tusks are making their appearance, 
the gums become very red and sore, therefore 
making it very painful for the horse to eat as he 
would like, and resulting in the falling off in 
flesh The slightest touch on the gums with the 
hand will cause the horse to fight your hand 
away from the mouth, and sometimes will strike 
very viciously with his front legs in order to pro- 
tect his mouth. When you find siich to be the case, 
take your pecketknife and make crucial incisions 
through the gums down to the coming teeth. This 
will prevent the horse from getting into the habit 
of fighting the bit w T hen trying to bridle him. The 
moment his gums are cut, he will by degrees re- 
cover his appetite. 



Necessary Instruments for Operating on the 
Teeth. 

The owners of horses that wish to take care 
of their own horses' teeth should have in their 
barn a jointed stiff or straight handle float, and 
also an angular float, a twelve-inch file, a molar 
cutter, a wolf tooth forcep, a wolf tooth separator 
and a molar extractor. The straight handle float 
is used to file the outsides, or edges, of the upper 
molars or jaw teeth, and the inside edges of the 
lower jaw. teeth. The angular float is used to file 
the first, second and third upper and lower jaw 
teeth. It can also be used to blunt the first upper 
and lower molars. The twelve-inch file is also 
used to blunt the first upper and lower jaw teeth, 
and to smooth or blunt the canine teeth. The 
wolf tooth separator is used to separate the wolf 



- 91 — 

teeth from the first molars. The wolf tooth ex- 
tractor is used to extract the wolf teeth after 
separating the wolf teeth with the wolf tooth sep- 
arator. The molar cutter is used to cut off the 
long jaw teeth that project above the other mol- 
ars, and the molar extractor is used to extract the 
split and decayed jaw teeth. 



How to hold the Horse's Head While Operat- 
ing on the Teeth. 

Your horse should be backed in a narrow 
stall and some friend assist you in this operation. 
Have your assistant place his right hand upon 
the horse's neck, a few inches back of his ears, 
and place his left hand on the nasal peak, about 
three or four inches above the nostrils. Give your 
assistant instructions to hold the horse's head as 
steady as possible. Now, should the horse begin 
to fight while you are operating on his mouth, 
tell your assistant to take hold of the horse's left 
ear as close to the head as possible, with his right 
hand, and twist the ear slightly. The more the 
horse resists your efforts, the more your assistant 
should twist the ear. The horse will in a very 
short time learn that when he moves his head he 
will be punished for it. A twitch is a very good 
instrument to place on the ear, but on the other 
hand I am not a great believer in it, as it acts too 
severely on the ear. You may do more harm to 
the ear by the use of the twitch than you would 
do good to the teeth. 

Tin's halter is especially made for dental 
operations. This halter consists of a leather- 
covered iron loop (see cut) fifteen inches long 
and nine inches wide, with a single pole strap and 
a ring on each side for the tie ropes. The pole 
strap is two inches of heavy leather with numer- 



- 92 — 

ous buckle holes to make it adjustable to any size 
head. The tie ropes are ordinary half-inch hemp, 
long enough to encircle the pillar or to reach the 
pillars of a stall of any ordinary width. There is 
also a rope tied to the lower part of the halter 
which is to pass between the fore legs and up 



L 1130 Lucas Dental Halter. $10.00 
For Sale by BLEES-MOORE INSTRUMENT CO.. St. Louis. 

around the withers, down through the fore legs 
and back to the lower part of the dental halter, 
and then tied. By using the third rope it prevents 
the horse from raising his head up, and conse- 
quently giving the operator a better chance to op- 
erate on the teeth. 



How to Examine the Teeth. 

Inspect the upper and lower front teeth to 
determine the horse's age and also all defects. 
Then blunt or file off just a little of the top points 
of the canine teeth. These are the teeth that are 
between the jaw grinders and front teeth. By 
doing so you prevent the hands from being 
wounded when you enter the mouth with your 
hand to examine the molars. The filing of the 
canine teeth must not be done to any great ex- 



-93 — 

tent. The point or sharp edges should only be 
taken off, as a short, blunted canine gives the ap- 
pearance of older age, and it only leaves an op- 
portunity for others to criticise. 

The next in order is to examine the jaw 
teeth. For the purpose of going back into the 
horse's mouth with your hand without having 
the animal close its mouth and clinching your 
fingers, stand on the left side of your horse, take 
hold of the horse's head or the nasal bone a little 
above the nostrils with your right hand, pass 
vour left hand in the mouth between the molars 
and incisors (this space is called the interdental 
space) , and as you pass your hand into the mouth 
have the back part of your hand turned towards 
the incisors teeth; push the tongue to the right 
side of the jaws between the upper and lower 
molars with the back part of your hand. After 
you have done that, pass your wrist over to the 
right side of the mouth by pushing the tongue 
between the upper and lower molars. This is 
done to compel the horse to keep his mouth open. 
His instinct teaches him if he closes his mouth he 
will bite his tongue. Therefore you need not fear 
that the horse will bite your hand if you keep his 
tongue between the upper and lower molars. 
While you have your hand in the animal's mouth, 
pass your fingers along the left inferior arcade, 
or the left lower molars, to determine the amount 
of filing which is to be done on the lower grinders 
next to the tongue, and also feel for other de- 
fects. After you have examined the left lower 
molars, pass your fingers between the upper and 
lower jaw teeth and examine the upper molars 
on the outside of the grinders for sharp points, 
so that you can determine the amount of filing 



- 94 - 

that is to be done. Also feel for all other defects, 
such as long molars and decayed teeth. 

After you have examined the left molars, 
then inspect the right molars. In doing this, place 
your left hand on the nasal bone a little above his 
nostrils, and pass your right hand in the mouth, 
the same as you have done when inspecting the 
right superior and inferior arcades, or in other 
words, the upper and lower jaw teeth. While you 
are inspecting the upper and lower jaw teeth al- 
ways remember to keep his tongue between op- 
posite molars that you are inspecting. So as to 
put the reader still further on his guard, before 
you pass your hand into the horse's mouth to ex- 
amine the back molars, I want to advise you to 
first examine the mouth in this manner, by pass- 
ing your hand into the interdental space, between 
the jaw and front teeth, and taking hold of the 
tongue, draw it out, just a little to one side, raise 
the head and look back into the mouth for any 
missing molars above or below. Decayed teeth 
are found in old horses, the same as are found in 
the human race. Tf you find that to be the case, 
be very careful when you pass your hand back 
into his mouth to inspect the back molars, for the 
reason that the teeth are not there to assist you 
in compelling the horse to keep his mouth open 
when yon press the tongue between the upper and 
lower molars. If you feel as though you do not 
care to enter a horse's mouth with your hand by 
merely having the protection of the tongue, you 
can go to your blacksmith and tell him to make 
you a mouth speculum, which you can use to place 
in the mouth to keep it open while you are ex- 
amining it. The speculum can be made by tak- 
ing two pieces of iron six inches long by a half an 
inch thick, allowing one inch for welding, one 



— 95 - 

piece seven inches and another fourteen inches, 
weld on the end of the fourteen inch bar a small 
knob, which will answer as a hand hold. Or you 
can take off three inches from a broom handle, 
bore a half-inch hole through the center from end 
to end, and drive it on the end of the fourteen- 
inch bar, which will also answer as a hand hold. 
Now take the six-inch bar and weld it onto the 
seven-inch bar, about one inch from the top, then 
weld the other end of the six-inch bar onto the 
fourteen-inch bar, also one inch from the top, and 
weld the other six-inch bar onto the bottom of 
the seven-inch bar, allowing one inch to extend 
out, then weld the six-inch bar to the fourteen- 
inch bar, five inches below the top bar. After 
your blacksmith has completed your speculum, 
wrap around the cross-bars about a half a dozen 
layers of woolen cloth, then sew the cloth so it 
cannot unwrap from the cross-bar. Or you can 
go to a hardware store and buy a rubber hose ten 
inches long and half an inch thick, cut the hose in 
two, then cut it on one side from end to end, place 
it on the upper cross-bar, have the open space on 
the bottom so there will be no seam to wound the 
mouth, and place the other hose on the lower 
cross-bar, having the seam of the hose turned up. 
In order to keep the hose from turning around, 
heat the cross-bar before you place the hose on 
the speculum and in a few seconds, after you 
have the rubber on the bars, put the speculum in 
cold water. By heating the speculum before 
placing the rubber on it, you form a gum from 
the rubber hose, which will adhere to the cross- 
bars and stay in place. The water will cool the 
rubber and prevent it from burning through the 
hose. 



-96- 

How to Use the Speculum. 

Take hold of the handle with your right 
hand, and with your left hand open the mouth 
just far enough to pass the upper cross-bar be- 
tween the front teeth. Then place the upper 
cross-bar at the roof of the mouth, in the inter- 
dental space, then open the mouth a little wider 
and pass the lower cross-bar in the mouth and 
bring it down on the lower jaw. By doing this 
you will compel the horse to keep his mouth open, 
and you can then examine the mouth just as you 
please. 

I also want to call your attention, that while 




L-1112 Improved Mouth Speculum. $10.00 
For sale by BLEES-MOORE INSTRUMENT CO.. St. Louis 



-97 — 

you have your hand in the mouth, keep his tongue 
between his upper and lower jaw teeth, on the 
opposite side of the molars that you are examin- 
ing, as the speculum may accidentally slip from 
its place. In case that it should slip, your hand 
will be protected by the tongue. The above specu- 
lum can be made by any blacksmith that can weld 
a piece of iron, and it will answer the purpose 
just as well as any expensive mouth speculum. 
After you have examined the upper and 
lower jaw teeth, look for wolf teeth, which some- 
times extend directly in front and very close to 
the upper and lower molars. 




L-95 Merillats Mouth Gag 
For Sale by BLEES-MOORE INSTRUMENT CO., St. Louis. 



Using the Floats and Files on the Teeth. 

It is evident that one can float the teeth of 
the horse and use the dental instruments without 
causing any resistence on the horse's part, while 
there are others that have more or less trouble 



- 98 — 

with every animal they operate on. The differ- 
ence can very often be noticed by bystanders that 
would have them to think that some operators 
have a mysterious influence over their animals. 
Such, however, is not the case. The great secret 
lies in avoiding the use of force. The horse will 
resist any forcible movements of the hand while 
going back into the mouth to examine the molars. 
The violent or forcible means adopted while op- 
ening the mouth will result in great damage or 
injury to his gums, tongue and other parts of his 
mouth. To use force in opening the mouth is not 
necessary and should by all means not be resorted 
to. When working on the lower jaw teeth the 
hand should be placed in the interdental space to 
guide the float along the inside of the lower mol- 
ars. The mouth is opened a little more while fil- 
ing the lower molar than what it is when working 
on the upper grinders. 

To prevent the horse from fighting you, the 
hand must not be used in the interdental space 
to force the mouth open when the horse attempts 
to close his mouth. The hand is only there to 
guide the float and not to compel him to open his 
mouth. The hand can not be injured if you will 
keep it between the molars and incisor teeth at 
the interdental space. Injury to the hand is gen- 
erally caused by forcing the mouth open. The 
moment you begin to use force the horse will then 
start to resist your operation and move and turn, 
thereby causing your hand to slip between the 
molars, as the horse must have some free use of 
the jaw while operating on the teeth. The opera- 
tion on the teeth should not be a fight in strength 
between the patient's jaw and the dentist's hand, 
as your strength is not equal to that of the horse. 



-99 — 

The position of how the hand can be placed in the 
mouth to guide the instruments is taken up under 
the following headings : 



How to Float the Right Upper Molars. 

Place the left hand into the interdental 
space on the right side of the mouth, in front of 
the first molar. The palm of the left hand must 
be turned upward, so that the outer surface of 
the fingers can be used to guide the float while 
you are filing the edges of the molars with the 
float in the right hand. While floating the mol- 
ars, keep the file flat against the outside edges of 
the teeth, and not upon the teeth surface. 



Floating the Left Upper Molars. 

The left hand is passed through the mouth, 
from the right side to the left, into the inter- 
dental space, with the palm of the hand turned 
up. The thumb is placed in front of the left up- 
per molar and also against the upper jaw, which 
is called the left upper branch of the premaxilla. 
Placing your thumb in that position, it puts you 
on your guard to keep your hand from slipping 
between the animal's teeth if the animal should 
happen to slightly turn its head. The file is 
worked alongside of the left molars with the 
right hand, and guided with the fingers of the 
left. 



Floating the Right Lower Molars. 

In floating the right lower jaw teeth, place 
your right hand in the mouth the same as you did 
heretofore, and the float should be worked with 
the left hand. You will find that it will be some- 
what awkward, for you to work the float with 



— 100 — 

your left hand. My advice is to train your left 
hand to gain this, point, because it is the only 
position that gives general satisfaction. You can 
also place the left hand upwards into the mouth 
on the right side of the jaw and guide the float 
between the second and third fingers, and work it 
with your right hand. 

There are still a few other methods. One of 
these is the passing of your left hand into the 
mouth on the right side and taking hold of the 
tongue very firmly and passing it to the left side 
of the mouth. Work the float with your right 
hand and guide the shaft of it underneath the 
wrist. In order to guide the shaft under the 
wrist, raise the wrist upwards towards the roof 
of the month. 



Floating the Left Lower Molars. 

In floating the left lower molars the left 
hand should be passed into the mouth from the 
right side to the left, in the interdental space un- 
derneath the tongue. When passing the hand in- 
to the interdental space, have the palm of the 
hand turned downwards, and when the left side 
of the tongue is reached with the fingers, the 
palm of the hand is to be turned upwards. The 
back part of the wrist is laid flat upon the lower 
jaw, between the first molars and incisor teeth. 
Placing your wrist in that position prevents the 
tongue from slipping underneath it. The float is 
worked with the right hand along the edges of 
the inside part of the lower jaw teeth. The shaft 
is guided by the thumb and first finger. 

Here is a different method of floating the 
left lower jaw teeth. Place the left hand into the 
mouth, with the palm of your hand turned down, 



- 101 - 

from the right side to the left underneath the 
tongue, and when the fingers reach the left side 
of the tongue, pass the fingers and hand upward, 
between the. tongue and molars, with the back 
part of the hand turned towards the tongue and 
the palm of the hand turned towards the molars, 
allowing the thumb to protrude upwards. By 
placing your hand in that position you prevent 
the horse from pressing his tongue against the 
float. The file is used by the right hand and di- 
rected with the flat side of the base of the thumb. 



The Easiest Method of Floating the Teeth. 

Instruct your assistant to hold the horse's 
head steady, pass the float alongside of either 
upper molars or the outside, or alongside of the 
inside edges of the lower molars, take the handle 
of the float in your right or left hand — depending, 
of course, which side of the jaw teeth you are go- 
ing to float — place the file alongside of the first, 
second and third molars, and after you have the 
float in the proper position, take hold of the han- 
dle with both hands and work the float along the 
first, second and third molars, and after you have 
the float in the proper position, take hold of the 
handle with both hands and work the float along 
the edges of all six grinders. Kemember, while 
working the float in that manner, not to steer it 
in another direction, and work on the gums or 
on the table surface. The moment you begin to 
work the float on the gums the horse will resist 
your operation. Allowing the float to steer on the 
table surface, you will find it to be a very difficult 
proposition to float the teeth, as the horse will 
have an opportunity to come down on the file 
and cause the movement of the float to stop until 



— 102 — 

he opens his mouth again. Therefore, guide the 
float along the edges of the grinders and you will 
avoid all trouble. After you have worked the 
float along the molars for a minute or two, take 
the float out of his mouth and wash the enamel 
off of the file, then repeat your work again until 
you have the edges of the grinders from the first 
to the sixth molars smooth. 



Blunting the Right Upper Molars. 

Place the left hand a little above the mouth 
on the right side of the face, pass your thumb in 
the commissure, or, in other words, the part that 
joins the lips together, draw the lip back with 
the thumb, place the twelve-inch file in your right 
hand and blunt the corners and edges off of the 
first molar. 



Blunting the Left First Upper Molar. 

Place the left hand on or above the nose of 
the horse at the nasal peak, pass the thumb down 
into the mouth where the lip makes its connection 
and draw the lip upwards, place the twelve-inch 
file in your right hand and smooth the corners 
around the first molar. 



Blunting the Right First Lower Molar. 

Place the left hand under the jaw, with the 
thumb turned up on the right side of the jaw, 
pass the thumb in the mouth where the lips make 
the connection and draw the lip down and back 
away from the first right molar, then place the 
twelve-mch file in your right hand, blunt the first 
right lower jaw teeth the same as you did the up- 
per teeth. 



- - 103 - 
Blunting the Left First Lower Molar. 

Place the right hand underneath the jaw, 
with the thumb turned up on the left side of the 
jaw, then pass the thumb into the mouth where 
the lips connect, draw the lips back and work the 
twelve-inch file on the teeth the same as you have 
done on the others. 

The above method of blunting the teeth is 
very simple, and it will require but very little 
labor to do it. There are many other methods 
which will serve the same purpose, but on ac- 
count of being crowded for space, cannot here 
state them. After you have finished floating the 
jaw teeth and there happens to be a tooth pro- 
jecting above the other molars, use your molar 
cutter in this manner. For the left jaw guide the 
cutter with the left hand over the table surface, 
and after you reach the projecting tooth open 
the cutter with your right hand, then adjust the 
jaws over the bottom of the projecting tooth and 
cut off the tooth -with all your force by pressing 
both handles together. After cutting off the pro- 
jecting tooth, smooth the edges of the molar with 
the float. 

Projecting molars are caused by a vacant 
jaw tooth on the opposite grinders, which gives 
the projecting tooth a fair chance to grow. 
Sometimes the food lies between the cheek and 
molars, causing a ball to gather alongside of the 
cheek, which the horse cannot get out on account 
of the long tooth being in the tongue's way. 



Wolf Teeth. 



Wolf teeth are known to be very small teeth, 
which project in from the upper jaw molars, and 



— 104 - 

occasionally are located in front of the lower jaw 
grinders. A majority of the veterinary surgeons 
claim them harmless. The only bad feature of 
them is their interference with the over-check 
bit, or the coach horse riggings, and they are not 
harmful to the eyes. 



Treatment. 

The eye tooth, or wolf tooth, as it is known, 
should be extracted, as it serves no useful pur- 
pose. The probability is that it will sometimes 
interfere with the bit and annoy the horse while 
out driving. 

These teeth are a little difficult to get at and 
extract on account of their location. To remove 
them, use the wolf tooth separator in this man- 
ner: Place the head of the separator between 
the wolf tooth and molar, draw the handles to- 
gether and this will separate the wolf tooth from 
the molar. You can then take the wolf tooth for- 
cep and draw the tooth with ease. 



Canine Teeth. 

It is advisable to remove the tartar which ac- 
cumulates around the canine teeth, as it produces 
a slight irritation in the gums. The tartar can 
be removed very easily with a file or gouge. 



Rejecting Food; The Cause. 

The food is rejected, at times, on account of 
a split or decayed molar, which causes pain to the 
jaw. At times the sharp point of a split tooth 
causes the tongue or cheek to become sore by con- 
tact, thereby producing pain while masticating 
the food. A split tooth or a decayed molar should 
by all means be extracted. This can be done by 
using the open molar extractor. 
(See Cut.) 



— 105 - 

How to Form a Clinic to Take Care of Your 
Horse's Teeth. 

I think it a very good plan to have a meeting 
of your neighbors at some convenient place and 
discuss the care of horses's teeth. In holding this 
conference, a great many useful and beneficial 
things can be learned, and in a short time your- 
self, as well as your neighbors, can attend to the 
horse's teeth just as good as the best veterinary 
could do it for you. This conference can be con- 
tinued during your spare time until all present 
are capable of taking care of their own horses' 
teeth, and put them in proper condition. 



L06 




L 918 Wolf Tooth Forcep Bayonet, 10 inch, $2.75. 
L 912 Tooth Seperating Forceps, 8 inch, $2.25. 
L 964 Molar Extracting Forceps, $7.00. 

All Instruments shown in this book for sale by 
BLEES-MOORE INSTRUMENT CO., 906 
Pine St., St. Louis, Mo. Write for Catalog. 

All Instruments less 10 per cent for cash. 



107 







L 945 Multiple Molar Cutter, open, $13.50. 

L 952 Handles for Molar Cutters and Extractors, $3.50 

All instruments shown in this book for sale by BLEES- 
MOORE INSTRUMENT CO., 906 Pine St., St. 
Louis, Mo., Veterinary Catalog on application. 

All Instruments less 10 per cent for cash. 



- 108 







L 1071 Bayonet File and Rasp, 13 inch, $1.00. 
L 1065 Set of 2 Dental Floats, $2.50. 

All Instruments shown in this book for sale by BLEES- 
MOORE INSTRUMENT CO., 906 Pine St., St. 
Louis, Mo. Write for Veterinary Catalog. 

All Instruments less 10 per cent for cash. 



109 





L 239 Spragues Incisor Cutter, $10.00. 
L 965 Root Extracting Forceps, $7.00. 

All Instruments shown in this book, for sale by 
BLEES-MOORE INSTRUMENT CO., 906 
Pine St., St. Louis, Mo. Write for Catalog. 

All Instruments less 10 per cent for cash. 



- Ill) - 

How Bishoping is Done, or Shortening, Pol- 
ishing, Cupping and Staining; Mak- 
ing the Old Horses Appear 
Young, 

The front teeth, especially the upper incis- 
ors, are shortened with the incisor nipper (see 
cut) and file, and the outside part of the incisors 
are polished. 

The cups are renewed by drilling and stain- 
ing. The crown shortening of the upper front 
teeth will only deceive the unskilled, careless 
judge of the teeth. The shortened crowns can be 
noticed by the edges of the outside teeth. If this 
is not perceptible, then by the changes made in 
shortening and staining the teeth. In the first 
place, they will cut off the internal table angle of 
each corner tooth and then they are filed to the 
length which is decided upon. The length of the 
corner incisors are used as a guide for reducing 
the rest of the front teeth. A deep groove is filed 
through the enamel across the entire length of 
the front incisors, connecting the new table of the 
corner teeth. Then the second teeth on each side, 
next to the corner teeth, are cut off and filed to 
the level of the corner incisors, and the central, 
or two middle teeth, are cut off and filed to the 
level of the incisors next to the corner teeth. The 
tables of the teeth are then leveled backwards by 
very patient filing to a smooth edge to give a 
standard superior table. In shortening the teeth, 
great care is taken so that the enamel is not 
chipped off above the normal table, w T hich they 
decide upon to shorten. They will first file them 
very d^ep through the enamel, along the entire 
length of the incisor teeth. In so doing it pre- 
vents the enamel from cracking above the mark 



Ill — 

decided upon to use the nippers to chip off the 
teeth with. While the teeth are chipped, very lit- 
tle at a time is grasped until they reach the filed 
line. After the teeth are shortened, the face or 
front part of the teeth is scraped with a curette 
until the tartar is removed. Emery paper is used 
to whiten the incisors, to appear as young teeth. 
This operation is also performed by a revolving 
emery wheel being attached to a flexible shaft of 
a dental foot engine such as is used by the dentist 
while operating upon the human being. By op- 
erating upon the teeth in that manner the grooves 
can also be made as well as the tartar, or yellow 
color, can be removed. The typical bluish white 
color of young enamel teeth can not, however, be 
imitated, and, besides, the yellow color will re- 
turn after they are polished. 



Bishoping or Renewal of the Cups. 

Bishoping is one of the most important arti- 
ficial attempts to make the aged horses appear 
younger ; and if the operation is performed with 
great skill upon horses that are not too far ad- 
vanced in age, even the expert cannot tell the 
difference. The cupping is performed on the 
lower front incisors, into which are cut large 
cups in the end or corner teeth, and smaller ones 
in the teeth next to the corner teeth, or otherwise 
called lateral teeth, and mere dots in the middle 
or central teeth, and then they are stained with 
silver nitrate. The cupping is performed with a 
very small engraver's chisel, revolving hand drill, 
or by a dental engine that is worked by foot. As 
the operation is performed upon the teeth, a 
dental halter is placed on the animal's head and 
then put in a single stall. The ropes that are at- 
tached on either side of the dental halter are tied 



- 112 - 

to the pillow on each side of the stall. The dental 
engine is worked by the foot of an assistant. The 
hand piece of the flexible shaft is held in the right 
hand and the jaw in the left by the operator, and 
he then cuts a large elliptical cup with sharp com- 
missures in the table of the corner teeth, and then 
smaller cups are drilled in the second teeth, next 
to the corner incisors on each side of the mouth, 
and small dots are bored in the two middle teeth 
or central incisors. It requires only a few mo- 
ments to cup the teeth if the horse stands. If 
the corner teeth have a small cup, they will en- 
large it with a file, or the dental engine. The cor- 
ners are cupped inside mostly with a rounded 
head attached to the flexible shaft of the dental 
engine and a sharp commissure externally, to 
give a better and more natural appearance. 

After the cupping of the teeth is finished, 
they are dried and the saliva is kept away from 
the teeth with a towel or cloth by wrapping it be- 
hind the teeth and around the jaw. The cups are 
stained with a pointed stick saturated in a solu- 
tion of silver nitrate and then dried at once by 
plunging into the cup the head of a burning 
match. The burning match blackens the cup at 
once. When the stain flows over the tooth it is 
filed off. When a horse becomes 9 or 10 years old, 
great car^ is taken that the crusta petrosa within 
the infundibula is not removed, or in other words, 
great precaution is taken not to remove any more 
of the enamel off of the table of the teeth than is 
necessary: they always leave around the cup as 
much enamel boundary as possible. The staining, 
shortening, cupping and polishing of the teeth on 
horses that are 9 or 10 years old can sometimes 
be performed so cleverly that an expert may fail 
to discover the alteration. As the horse passes the 



- 113 - 

age of 12 years these operations upon his teeth 
can very easily be noticed by the destroyed con- 
tact of the front incisors or the angle of inclina- 
tion, which cannot be altered and artificially 
changed. The enamel that is missing around the 
cup and the shape of the teeth will also lead you 
to detect the attempt or act to make old horses 
appear as young ones. 



Ladies' Horsemanship. 

The saddle the ladies use is on the same prin- 
ciple as that of the gentlemen, except that the 
bits and reins of the bridle are lighter and more 
ornamental, the reins narrower and the saddle 
furnished with clutches for the purpose of riding 
on the side. The saddle should always be care- 
fully fitted to the horse, and at all times have a 
third clutch. An extra leather girth is used, 
which keeps the flaps on the saddle in place. The 
stirrup can be like a man's, with leather or velvet 
lining, or it can have a slipper, which is easier 
and safer to the foot. The lady's whip is light for 
the reason that a horse in her hands ought very 
seldom require punishment, and is more or less 
carried to threaten the animal than anything 
else. Ladies sometimes use the spur, which is to 
act as a kind of a stimulus at the proper moment. 
For ornamental purposes a nose martingale is 
added. A horse that throws up his head is not 
fit for ladies' use. 

The general impression among men is that 
any gifted horse which carries itself well is the 
proper horse for the lady. This, however, is er- 
roneous. If the selection was left with the ladies 



- 114 - 

the decision would in every instance be contrary. 
The ladies who ride very seldom go above one 
hundred or one hundred and thirty pounds. The 
ladies' horse should in point of soundness, action, 
mouth and temper be uncensurable. 

The horse that a woman is riding should 
have al. the gaits, for the reason that it gives her 
ease and comfort to change positions at her dis- 
cretion. The height of the ladies* horse should be 
from fourteen and a half to fifteen hands high. 
Smaller than this makes her skirt trail in the 
dirt, and higher than this is too high and clumsy 
or bulky for ladies' use. 

When a woman is riding a saddle horse, to 
make him move at a gentle gallop, or at a quicker 
and shorter tread than in ordinary ambling, the 
curb of the bit should be drawn tightly, necessi- 
tating the head of the animal to be pulled down, 
and in consequence thereof the front legs of the 
animal are manipulated by a smooth and easy 
movement, and the hind legs with a kind of a 
swing, giving the rider all the comfort and pleas- 
ure that can be derived from horseback riding. 
This method will eliminate all jarring so often 
experienced by horseback riders. 

In mounting the horse, the great mistake is 
made in keeping the knee bent, which ought to be 
straightened out as soon as possible. If kept 
bent it requires a great deal of power to lift her 
into the saddle, where on the other hand a good 
spring and a straight knee she ought to weigh 
but a very few pounds. The lady's position is gen- 
erally supposed to be weak, but depends entirely 
upon the balance. But this is a big mistake, nd 
there can be no doubt, from what is seen in pri- 
vate, as well as in the circus life, that it requires 
as great an effort for the horse to unseat a good 



- 115 - 

female rider as the opposite sex. There was even 
with the old single clutch a good hold with the 
leg, but inasmuch as the third clutch has been 
added, it makes it a more firm one. When this 
is not used, the clutch is laid hold of by the right 
leg and pinched between the calf of the leg and 
the thigh, so as to afford a firm and steady hold 
for the whole body, especially when aided by the 
stirrup. But this latter support merely pre- 
serves the balance and is useful also in trotting. 
It does not at all give a firm, steady seat, though 
it adds to one already obtained by the knee. 
When two clutches are used, the leg is brought 
back so far as to grasp the clutch as before, but 
between the two knees the two clutches are firmly 
laid hold of, the upper one being under the right 
knee and the lower one above the left. The right 
knee hooked over the clutch keeps the body from 
slipping backwards, while the left keeps it from 
a forward motion, and thus the proper position is 
maintained. The right foot should in all cases be 
kept back, and the point of the toe should scarcely 
be visible. These points should be especially not- 
ed by all female riders, and they should learn as 
soon as possible to steady themselves by the 
grasp of the clutches without depending on the 
stirrup iron. Regardless of her seat, the body 
should be square to the front, with the elbow 
easily bent and preserved in its proper position 
by the same precaution. The whip is generally in 
the right hand, with the lash pointing forward 
and towards the left. In that position it can be 
used on any part of the horse's body. With this 
substitution, and with the caution against all vio- 
lent attempts at coercion, which are better car- 
ried out by the fine hand and delicate tact of the 
lady, all the feats which man can perform may 



- 116 - 

well be imitated by her. To dismount, the horse 
is brought to a dead stop and the head of the 
horse held by an assistant. The lady now turns 
her knee back again from the position between 
the outside clutch, takes her foot out of the stir- 
rup, and sits completely sideways, then putting 
her left hand on the man's shoulder and his right 
arm around her waist, she alights to the ground. 



Medical Treatment of the Horse. 

The author, in conclusion, wishes to recom- 
mend to the reader, for his own perusal and bene- 
fit, some very valuable, simple and effective rem- 
edies for the treatment of horses. These medical 
prescriptions hereinafter enumerated are well 
worth the price of the book many times over. 
Condition Powders. 

Sulphus 2 lbs., Foenugreek 4 lbs., Cream of 
Tartar 1 lb., Licorice 1 lb., Nitre 1 lb., Antimony 
1-2 lb., Gentian Powder 1-2 lb., Salt 1 lb. Give 
one ounce daily for several weeks. 

Black Sulphuret of Antimony 1 oz., Sulphus 

1 oz., Nitre 1 oz. Mix and add 1-4 to bran or with 
food; give daily. 

Gentian Powder 1-2 lb., Licorice 1-2 lb., 
Foenugreek 1 lb., Nitre 1-2 lb., Asa-foetida 1 oz., 
Salt 1-2 lb. One-half to one ounce to aid appetite. 
Constipation. 

Change of food. Watch food that it is not 
mouldy. 

Powdered Aloes 4 oz., Powdered Gentian 

2 drachms, Calomel 1-2 drachms. Make into ball 
with molasses and give at once. 

Barbadoes Aloes 6 drachms. Soap 3 drachms, 
Ginger 1 drachm, Oil Cloves 10 drops, Water 1 
to 2 drachms. Beat together into a mass. 

Calomel 1-2 drachm, Aloes 1 drachm, Soap 2 



- 117 - 

drachms, Rhubarb Powdered 1-2 oz, Syrup or 
Molasses to make a ball. Give one ball every 12 
hours until it purges. 

Diarrhoea. 

Care of food. Clean food. Attend to teeth. 
Prevent exposure. 

Powdered Opium 2 drachms, Subnitrate of 
Bismuth 1 oz. Give three times a day if needed. 

Powdered Opium 1 drachm, Sulphocarbolate 
of Zink 10 gr., Bicarbonate of Soda 3 drachms. 

Powdered Rhubarb 1 drachm, Magnesia 1 
drachm, Compound Mixture of Chalk 4 drachms, 
Creosote 5 drops. 

Worms. 

Asa-foetida 2 drachms, Calomel 1 drachm, 
Savine 1-2 drachm, Oil Wormwood 30 drops, 
Syrup. Make this into a ball and give a purge 
ball in morning. 

Santonin 2 drachms, Calomel 1 drachm. Give 
two doses from six to twelve hours apart, follow- 
ed by one quart of linseed oil six hours after sec- 
ond dose. 

For tapeworm: Two drachms Oleoresin of 
Male Fern, followed by purge ball. 

For roundworm : Give two times a day one 
ounce of turpentine in four quarts of linseed oil 
for three days, and then follow by purge ball. 

Calomel, Oil Male Fern and Aloes of each 1 
drachm, Ginger 4 drachms, Linseed Meal and 
Molasses sufficient to make one ball. 

Powdered Sulphur 12 oz., Arsenic 1 drachm, 
Coriander Seed 6 oz. Make twelve powders and 
give one daily. 

Eyewashes. 

Boric Acid 10 gr., Sulphate of Zink 3 gr., 
Water 1 oz. 



— 118 - 

Mange. 

Scrub the skin with soapsuds and apply 
thoroughly a lather made of 1 1-2 oz. of tobacco 
boiled in two pints of water. Repeat again in 
fifteen days. 

Harness, curry-comb, brush, etc., should be 
likewise treated. Blankets may be boiled and the 
stable covered with a whitewash of quicklime, 
containing one-fourth pound of Chlorinated lime 
to the gallon. 

After scrubbing the skin with soapsuds, ap- 
ply to the affected parts a solution of carbolic 
acid, 1-2 oz. to one pint of water. 

After cleansing or brushing, apply one 
ounce of turpentine and three ounces of soft 
soap ; or, flowers of sulphur, two ounces, and 
ointment of carbolic acid, seven ounces. 



Treatment for the Hoof When the Horse 
Steps Into Nail. 

The time-honored custom of pouring turpen- 
tine into the hoof after this disagreeable acci- 
dent should be abandoned, but instead the hole 
should be thoroughly cut out and then peroxide 
of hydrogen should be freely poured into the 
wound, then thoroughly swabbed with cotton 
soaked in peroxide of hydrogen, and then the op- 
ening filled with cotton soaked with clear pine tar 
and firmly covered by an antiseptic dressing. 



Drinking Water, and Test for Same, for 
Horses and Cattle. 

The matter of drinking water for horses and 
cattle has not usually received the consideration 
that it should. As a rule, of course, pure running 
spring water is the best for watering stock. 
However, springs may be contaminated. Running 



- 119 - 

water usually is better than water kept in pools 
or even well water. Stagnant water cannot be 
condemned too much. Drinking water is often 
contaminated with organic matter — decaying 
leaves, sewage, surface water, from manure piles 
and outhouses, thus causing sickness and disease, 
diarrhoea, dysentery and allied intestinal trou- 
bles. Wells should be at least one hundred feet 
from manure piles, outhouses, or from the sew- 
age coming from the living house. 

Here is a simple and cheap remedy for 
quickly testing water for contamination with or- 
ganic matter: Purchase 5 cents worth of per- 
manganate of potash. Keep in bottle well corked. 
This chemical comes in small purple crystals or 
needles. Drop a crystal in a glass of water with- 
out shaking. If a pure purple color rises from it 
or surrounds it, the water is drinkable and not 
contaminated with organic matter to an appreci- 
able extent. However, if a brown or mulky color 
appears rising or surrounds it, this shows or- 
ganic matter contained in the water, and should 
not be used for drinking purposes. 

This test, as well as the foregoing, applies to 
the drinking water for man as well as beast. 



Feeding and Fattening Horses on Molasses. 

When feeding the horse at night, give him 
his regular feed in the box, then pour one table- 
spoon of black molasses and thoroughly m^x with 
a short stick. The next night use two table- 
spoonsful and continue on in this manner until 
you are feeding a* half pint. After that the 
amount can be decreased or increased, which will 
keep the horse's bowels moist and easy, and not 
too loose. Corn or oats, either ground or whole, 



- 120 - 

can be fed in this manner. Bran should not be fed 
during this time, as the molasses does the work 
of the bran. When desiring the horse fattened 
quickly, the sorghum should be mixed with the 
feed three times a day, instead of once. The mo- 
lasses, can also be fed the horse without grain by 
mixing a pint of it in a quart of water and mix- 
ing it thoroughly with cut hay. The sorghum and 
grain, or cut hay, well mixed and fed to your 
horse, will secure digestion. No matter what kind 
of feed is fed your horse, if he is fed steadily 
and regularly, results will be forthcoming. 



How Some Carriage Horses are Fed in the 
Central West in Livery Stables. 

Horses weighing from 1000 to 1200 pounds 
are first watered and then fed about six or seven 
ears of corn and a layer of hay for breakfast. 
About 9 o'clock they are given three tablespoons- 
ful of molasses in their feed boxes. At noon they 
are given water and then fed a half peck of oats, 
but no hay. After again being watered they re- 
ceive about fifteen pounds of hay and a half peck 
of mixed feed, which consists of crushed corn, 
cut alfalfa, oats and bran which has been damp- 
ened, fnr supper, all in equal parts. 

In the livery stable horses are fed timothy 
hay three times a week, clover mixed with tim- 
othy hay twice a week, and prairie hay twice. 
When feeding hay mixed with clover, the hay 
should be absolutely free from dust, or if it is 
not, it should be dampened. Mouldy hay should 
never be fed a horse. It would be better to starve 
the animal than to feed him mouldy hay. Prairie 
hay is fed the horse to keep the kidneys in fair 
condition, and not for strength. Coarse salt is 



- 121 — 

fed twice a week in a small box next to the regu- 
lar feed box. 

In the summer they are given a half peck of 
oats three times a day, and once a week they are 
fed a half peck of bran, into which condition 
powder and coarse salt have been thoroughly 
mixed, and this mixture has been dampened. 
They are given water before each meal, and after 
they have been used they are given only a mouth- 
ful of water before being taken to their stall. In 
the morning they are fed a layer of timothy hay, 
none at noon and about fifteen pounds at night. 
Prairie hay or clover is not fed them during the 
hot months. Salt is given them twice a week in 
a box placed beside their regular feed box. 



Feeding of Brewery Horses in the Central 
West. 

It might be new and interesting for some of 
my readers to learn how large brewery horses 
in the Central West are fed, and I will herewith 
make myself as brief and comprehensive as pos- 
sible in regard to this subject. 

Horses as a general rule for this class of 
work average in the neighborhood of 1700 
pounds. They are fed eight pounds of oats in 
the morning, no feed at noon, and at night seven 
pounds of ground oats, one pound of cut alfalfa 
thoroughly mixed together with course salt, and 
sixteen pounds of timothy hay. Water is given 
them before each and every meal and three times 
a day. Coarse salt pressed in brick form is placed 
in a small box next to the feed box. Prairie hay 
is fed on Sundays only. Corn is very seldom 
given either winter or summer. Horses fed in 
this manner are not permitted to go faster than a 
walk. Delivery horses that are used by them are 



- 122 - 

fed three times a day. with six pounds of oats in 
the morning, four pounds of oats at noon, and in 
the evening seven pounds of oats with one pound 
of cut alfalfa mixed with salt, and sixteen 
pounds of timothy hay. 

For the caring of horses' hoofs ground flax 
seed is used, made into paste by adding a little 
water to it, and then thoroughly niixing. This 
mixture is packed into the horses' hoofs three 
times a week, i. e., Sunday, Tuesday and Thurs- 
day. Their experience has been that using this 
mixture in the manner just stated, not one horse 
out of one hundred will ever suffer with a dis- 
eased hoof. The shoes are not permitted to re- 
main on their hoofs more than a month, regard- 
less whether they are still fit for use or not. They 
are therefore shod once a month. 



Principles of Horse Feeding. 

Compiled by United States Department of Agriculture. Farmers 
Bulletin Wo. 170. 

The amount of the different feeding stuffs 
required, and hence the quantity of nutrients 
supplied to horses, may be learned by observa- 
tion or experiment, or a combination of the two 
methods. Doubtless all practical horse feeders 
supply rations which they believe are suited to 
their horses' needs, and in stables where horses 
are fed in any considerable number, economy de- 
mands that the amount fed shall be fixed and not 
vary according to the whims of the feeder. When 
the feeding stuffs used are weighed, and the con- 
dition of the horses is noted, a feeding experi- 
ment results. 

The New Hampshire Station found that the 
following rations were moderate in cost and suffi- 



- 123 

cient in amount for farm horses weighing be- 
tween 1,200 and 1,300 pounds: 

Ration No. 1 — Timothy hay, 10 pounds ; 
bran, 2 pounds; corn, 6 pounds; and glutten feed, 
6 pounds. 

Ration No. 2 — Timothy hay, 10 pounds; corn, 
8 pounds; and bran, 7 pounds. 

Ration No. 3 — Timothy hay, 10 pounds; 
corn, 8 pounds; and linseed meal, 4 pounds. 

As shown by correspondence, a favorite ra- 
tion with feeders in different cities for truck 
horses, weighing some 1,500 pounds, is made up 
of 15 to 20 pounds of oats and 12 to 20 pounds of 
hay. Some feeders prefer corn and oats in equal 
parts instead of oats. Army horses weighing 
about 1,100 pounds are given oats 12 pounds and 
hay 14 pounds. According to the army regula- 
tions a like amount of corn or barley may be sup- 
plied in place of oats. 

The Iowa Station work horses, weighing 
1,200 pounds, according to a recent publication, 
are fed 12 pounds of hay and 12 pounds of grain 
(oats, corn and bran, 3-2-1) per head daily. If 
oats are high in price the amount of corn is in- 
creased, the grains being mixed in the proportion 
of 2-2-1. Horses weighing 1,500 to 1,600 pounds 
receive 15 pounds of hay and 15 pounds of the 
above grain mixture. This, it is said, has been 
found sufficient to keep them in good flesh during 
heavy work, For ordinary work horses weighing 
about 1,300 pounds, a ration of 10 pounds of oat 
straw and 15 pounds of equal parts of corn and 
oats by weight is considered sufficient. At severe 
work the mixture should consist of 3 parts of 
oats to 2 of corn. 

The California Station recommends per 
1,000 pounds live weight the following combina- 



- 124 - 

tions among others as suited to Pacific coast con- 
ditions: 

Ration No. 1 — Alfalfa hay, 12 pounds ; 
wheat hay, 12 pounds; and crushed barley, 7 
pounds. 

Ration No. 2 — Alfalfa hay, 10 pounds; bar- 
Icy hay, 12 pounds : and cracked corn, 7 pounds. 

As a sample of a ration containing molasses 
the following* may be cited, which has been satis- 
factorily fed to a large number of draft horses 
averaging 1,700 pounds in weight: Night and 
morning, a quart of molasses, diluted with 3 
quarts of water and thoroughly mixed with 6 
pounds of cut hay of good quality, 1.5 quarts of 
corn meal and 2.5 quarts of coarse bran. In ad- 
dition the horses were given 5 quarts of dry oats 
in the middle of the day and 11 pounds of long 
hay at night. 

An English authority recommends the ration 
given below, which is interesting as an example 
of the use of roots : 

For work horses, 12 pounds of oats, 15 
pounds of hay and 5 pounds of carrots. A more 
abundant ration suited to more severe work is 20 
pounds of oats, 10 pounds of hay and 3 pounds of 
carrots. 

For farm horses at light work, Settegast 
recommends 6 to 10 pounds of oats, 6 to 9 pounds 
of hay and 3 pounds of straw. For medium work, 
10 pounds of oats, 10 pounds of hay and 3 pounds 
of straw. For heavy work, 13 pounds of oats, 12 
pounds of hay and 3 pounds of straw. 

A ration proposed by Sidney for a draft 
horse at heavy work is of interest, because beans 
replaced some of the grain ordinarily fed. The 
ration consists of 13 pounds of oats, 6 pounds of 



— 125 - 

beans, 3 pounds of corn and 15 pounds of chaffed 
clover hay. 

The above rations are not especially recom- 
mended, but are quoted as illustrations of the 
ways in which feeding stuffs can be combined. 
Each feeder should decide upon a ration which 
makes the most economical use of the local feed 
supply, taking care that it furnishes in reason- 
able combination nutritive material sufficient for 
the amount of work required. 



Treatment to Shed Winter Coat Off of Horse 
in a Very Short Time. 

I have found that the best and most effective 
plan to rid your horse of the winter coat in the 
spring of the year, in a very short time, is to give 
the animal, before supper, a half handful of 
whole wheat, and the same for breakfast. The 
following night give him one handful, and the 
next morning the same. Continue thereafter in- 
creasing the feed until you give him a pint for 
breakfast and also for supper. In applying this 
treatment you will remove the winter hair from 
the horse in a very short time and thereby make 
the spring and summer coating as soft and 
smooth as velvet. 



Shoeing. 

It is customary with a large majority of the 
horse-shoers throughout the country, in putting 
a shoe on a horse's hoof having corns, to pad the 
hoof in order to have the animal travel easier 
and prevent limping. This is not at all necessary. 
The best plan is to cut out or trim the corn as 
much as possible and make the shoe hollow or in- 
dent it at the place where the corn is, so that 



126 



there will be no pressure at that spot. Any ordi- 
nary shoe will answer the purpose. 



How to Prevent Striking the Ankle on Other 
Leg. 

Horses that are continually striking the an- 
kle of the other leg can be prevented from doing 
this by trimming his hoof, to leave the inside wall 
higher than the outside, and then adjusting a 
shoe with a short, narrow heel, with the inside 
higher than the outside part of it. The hoof in 
this instance should extend beyond the shoe. 



The Shoe to Use on a Cracked Hoof. 

In the first place, of course, the hoof must be 
properly treated before adjusting the shoe. The 
cut or crack must first be thoroughly cleaned, 
then where the crack ends a cut like this (X) is 
made with a file or other sharp instrument. This 
is done in order to prevent the crack from going 
on further. Now, the proper shoe to use, of 
course, varies in many cases. For instance, should 
the crack on the outer shell be very bad, of 
course, a light bar shoe is used. If the cases are 
milder, heavier shoes are used. Wherever there 
is a crack on the shell of the hoof, there should 
be a cap turned up on the shoe, which prevents 
the crack from opening up further. In addition 
there might be applied, after the shoe is on, 
wagon grease, and then tar, to act as a covering 
to k?ep out the dirt from the crack. The hoof 
should be daily washed and cleaned, and this 
w?eon grease applied, and in a very short time 
the animal will have a good and solid hoof. 



- 127 - 

CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Introductory , 3 

The Perpetual Motion .Horse 4 

A Few Words to the Owners of Bad Horses Who Wish 

Their Horses Properly Broken by Horse Trainers 6 
The Word "W 7 hoa" How it is Used and How it is 

Misused ... 7 

How to Use the W 7 hip and Make the Horse Pass Dif- 
ferent Objects 9 

How to Educate Horses not to be Afraid of Differ- 
ent Objects 10 

Educating the Horse to Stand Until vou are in the 

Buggy 11 

Side Pulling or Side Lining 12 

Working on a Horse's Hind LegsBefore Taking Him 

to a Shop to be Shod 13 

Showing the Workings of the Rope on the Hind 

Legs Before Taken to Shop to be Shod 14 

The Advantage a Horse Shoer has Over a Kicking 

Horse That has a Long Tail 15 

The Overcheck; How it can be L^sed and how it is 

Misused __ _ 15 

The Most Successful Method of Breaking Bad Kick- 
ers Without the Use of Hobbles 17 

Back Hobbles for Bad Kickers 22 

A Particular Point to Protect Your Life When out 
Driving behind a Horse That Should Kick Sud- 
denly 23 

Placing a Crupp'er Underneath the Tail of a Ner- 
vous Kicker 24 

How Some Drivers Cause Their Horses to Kick 

When the Lines get Under the Tail 25 

Dimensions for Making Shafts for Breaking Hor- 
ses, Used by the Author 26 

The Breaking Harness or Surcingle 27 

The Working of the Double Safety Rope and How 

to Use it : 28 

How to Make the Foot-Strap 30 

How to Make the Training Bridle Used by Prof. 

Hagerling 30 

The W T orking of the Training Bridle Used by Prof. 
Hagerling. How it is Used and W 7 hat You Can 

do With it 32 

A Few Pointers on how to Ride a Bucking Horse 

Without having him to Buck Under Saddle 34 

How to Teach a Nervous Saddle Horse to Stand 

Until You Are on His Back 38 

Dispositions of Horses; How to Judge Them 39 

Things That Cause Horses to Balk 41 

How to Break Balky Horses _ 43 

Compelling the Horse to go to the Right or Left 

When he Wishes to go to the Left or Right 45 

How to Make a Balky Horse Work 47 

How to Make a Balky Horse Work Under the Saddle 48 
Making a Balky Horse W T ork in Double Harness 49 



— 128 - 

PAGE 

To Break a Balker that Walks Backwards, Kicks 

and Fights the Whip 50 

Balkers That Lie Down or Throw Themselves 52 

Breaking a Horse From Pulling Back 52 

Another Easy Method to Keep the Horse From Pul- 
ling Back 53 

What you can Accomplish With Your Horse by 
Whirling him Around With his Head and Tail 54 

How to Get a Shaft Shier in the Shafts 55 

Whip Breaking, or Teaching the Horse to Come to 

You When You Enter His Stall 55 

Stopping the Horse From Pawing in the Stable 56 

Teaching the Horse to Lie Down..-. 56 

Different and Much Safer Way to Lay Horse Down 58 

Stopping the Horse From Biting (X) 

How to Saddle or Harness a Horse That Strikes 

Viciously With His Front Legs (>2 

A Fighting Horse, or Head Shier; Cause and Cure 62 

How to Stop a Run-A-Way Horse 64 

The Last Resort to Stop a Horse from RunningAway 65 
Making a Horse Proud When You Wish to Sell Him 65 

Teaching the Horse to Carry a Handkerchief 66 

Teaching a Donkey to Buck and Throw a Person.. 66 
Teaching a Horse to Count With His Front Leg 6] 

Teaching a Horse to Shake his Head for Word "No' 
Teaching a Horse to Bow his Head for Word "Yes" 69 
Teaching the Horse to Turn Around on 1 Front Leg 70 
Teaching Horse to get in Position for Lady to Mount 71 

Teaching the Horse to "Spanish Walk" 73 

Teaching the Horse to Make a Funny Face 75 

How Pedestal is Made and how to Educate Horse or 

Colt to Stand Upon Same 76 

How to Teach a Colt to Lie Down. Breaking Colts 79 
The Care of Colts, etc., Making Large Horses, etc.. 81 
Cleaning the Horse. How to Bed the Stall, etc... 

Collars vs Breast Blades or Breast Collars s 4 

TEETH 85 to 113 

How to tell Age of Horse 85; Teraoorary and Permanent 
Teeth 87; Symptons of Bad Teeth 88; Instruments for < Operat- 
ing on Teeth 90; How to Hold Horses Head Wbile < derating 
91; How to Examine 92; How to Use Speculum 96; I'sinvr tin- 
Floats and Files 97: How to Float Molars 99, IOO:EasiestMeth- 
od of Floating Teeth 101; Blunting the .Molars 102: Wolf Teeth 
103; Treatment Eye Tooth. Canine Tooth and Rejecting ]•"'«»] 
10J, How to Form a Clinic, 105; Instruments Used, Illustrated, 
106. 107, 108.109: How Bishoping is Done. 110; Bishoping i 
newal of the Cups. 111. 

Ladies' Horsemanship 113 

Medical Treatment of the Horse .. ll fi 

Treatment for Hoof When Horse Steps in Nail 118 

Drinking Water and Test, for Horses and Cattle 118 
Feeding and Fattening Horses on Molasses 119 

How Some Carriage Horses are Fed in Central West 120 
Feeding of Brewery Horses in the Central West 1-1 

Principles of Horse Feeding 122 

Treatment to Shed Winter Coat in Very Short Time L25 

Shoeing v _ 125 

How to Prevent Striking Aifkle on Other Leg 126 

The Shoe to Use on a Cracked Hoof 126 



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